Monday, July 4, 2011

Malacca the past and present.

Malacca is one of the 13 states in West Malaysia and the third smallest.
It takes just a two hours drive along the expressway from Kuala Lumpur,a distance of 148km.

During the British colonial rule of the country Malaya,it was then called Malacca town and now has been upgraded to Bandaraya Melaka Bersejarah.(Melaka Historical City)

.It was just a small little quiet town a decade ago where most of the Malaccan of all races know each other and mingle very well.

By year 2003,it achieved its city status and renamed Historical Malacca City.
On this coming 7th day of July 2011,Malacca will be in its third year being listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
 Malacca has rich authentic historical artifacts,colonial buildings,ancient literatures and arts,rare porcelain,earthenwares,coins,banknotes and including this stamp of Commonwealth British with a picture of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II.


At that time most of the postage stamp used were minted in England and has watermark of the crown.
The stamp office seal on the stamp with picture of Prince Philip,Duke of Edinburgh.

Malacca's historical background(part 1):
1)Pre-historic Malacca during the Srivijaya Empayar.
Existed during the 14th century,this was a very powerful Malay Empire based at Palembang on the island of Sumatera in modern Indonesia.
This empire will normally settle around the coastal hinterland.
With the expansion into Java and the Malay Peninsula, Srivijaya controlled two major trade choke points in Southeast Asia.
Some Srivijayan temple ruins are observable in Thailand(Wat Kaew,Chaiya in Suratthani Province) and Cambodia(Neak Leung town and Angkor Wat).
In Java island you have the Chandi Borobodur.

 Dominating the Malacca and Sunda straits, Srivijaya controlled both the spice route traffic and local trade, charging a toll on passing ships. Serving as an entrepot for Chinese, Malay, and Indian markets, the port of Palembang, accessible from the coast by way of a river, accumulated great wealth. Envoys travelled to and from China frequently.
Another powerful empire from Java that co-exist at that time was the Majapahit Empire tried to rival and crippled the Srivijayan.There were rivalry and rebellion thus causing the Srivijaya Empire to slowly disintegrate.


Between 1511 - 1641 ,the Portuguese established Malacca as their colony when Afonso de Albuquerque captured it.
Hence the Portuguese set up this A'Formosa fortress as a permanent form of fortification in anticipation of the counterattacks by Sultan Mahmud,the last Sultan of Malacca who was defeated during the fall of the city.












Fortaleza de Malaca was constructed at the foot of the fortress hill, next to the sea at that time.
Towards the right side of the hill were the graves and tombstones of Dutch fallen heroes.






The fortress system was a quadrilateral,that is there were four exit point,two of which were in common use and open to traffic.
It was built on the ground of the former Sultan Palace and facing the Straits of Malacca. The St Paul's Hill is behind the A'Formosa.







Photo of old Malacca showing the clock tower and the church.
This was during the Dutch rule(1641 - 1825) which was the longest period Malacca under foreign control.Solid 183 years.

The foreground has no fountain as yet and the horse carriage is the only mode of transport,so need not worry about crude oil price.
That Chinese lady wore a round hat typical to those from Guangdong Province in China so she must be a cantonese speaking Chinese immigrant while the horse carriage owner is a Malay wearing a 'sarong'



The present day Dutch Square with the clock tower.

Both the fountain and the clock tower were donated by the people of Malacca .

In 1886 Mr Tan Jiak Kim fulfilled the wishes of his father, Tan Beng Swee, who was a third generation of a Chinese philantrophic millionaire family.

 Tan Beng Swee, was the son of Tan Kim Seng who donated both the bridge adjacent to the clock tower and land for the Chinese cemetery. The original clock was imported from England.



 
A grand view from the bridge over the Malacca River of the Dutch Square.
Most of the roads around the radius of the historical sites have narrow roads and remains as it is.
The roads were only fit for the bullockcarts,bicycles and trishaw pullers at that time.





The Stadhuys and Christ Church was built in the 1650s. The Stadthuys served as the administrative centre and home of the Governor of Malacca.

Malacca is an ideal strategic seaport for the Dutch East India Company due to the trade route.
So the Dutch and Sultanate of Johor signed a treaty in 1606 to get rid of the presence of the Portuguese..

Johore state is just beside Singapore. On 14 January 1641 the Dutch took possession from the Portuguese of the fortress of Malacca, with the help of their ally the Sultan of Johore.



Dutch administrative building at the Dutch Square.
I can still recalled that this building was used as the National Registration Department till the late 80s.
During those days Malacca was still less touristy.










The Queen Victoria Diamond Jubilee Fountain. Queen Victoria (Alexandrina Victoria; 24 May 1819 – 22 January 1901) was the monarch of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland from 20 June 1837 until her death.

From 1 May 1876, she used the additional title of Empress of India.




Victoria was the daughter of Prince Edward, Duke of Kent and Strathearn, the fourth son of King George III.

In 1826, Penang, along with Malacca and Singapore, became part of the Straits Settlements under the British administration in India, under direct British rule in 1867 as a Crown Colony.





 In 1946 it became part of the Malayan Union, before becoming in 1948 a state of the Federation of Malaya, which gained independence in 1957 and became Malaysia in 1963 when Sabah and Sarawak came into the group.








Malaya and British Borneo One Dollar Banknote. Borneo is a large island that consisted of Brunei,Kalimantan(Indonesia) and Sabah & Sarawak(Malaya)
Sabah and Sarawak herein refers to as British Borneo.
At that time the Malaya dollar is at par value to those of the Japanese Yen,Singapore dollar and US dollar.
During that time a salary of a school headmaster was $150 while a clerk was $60.My personal pocket money to school was just 0.20 cents which can get me a bowl of soup noodle.I just couldn't imagine the wide spread in today's value.



Malacca Historical Background(part 2)  

2) Malacca Sultanate (1402-1511)

Established by the Malay ruler Parameswara who was a member of the Srivijaya empire royal family, the Sultanate of Malacca was first a Hindu Kingdom in 1402 and later his marriage to the princess of Pasai(Samudera,north of Sumatera) in 1409 made him a converted muslim.
Parameswara was booted out of Palembang when thousands of ships from the Majapahit Empire attacked the remaining Srivijaya stronghold.
Parameswara fled to Singapura and then north to Muar, Ujong Tanah and Biawak Busuk before founding Melaka in 1402.

The Malacca sultanate bordered the Ayutthaya Kingdom of Siam (Thailand) in the north to Sumatra in the southwest.



That's me in the early 80's during my secondary school days hanging around here with my fellow school buddies.
Not even a single tourist at that time and that's why we called it the Sleepy Hollow town. 
The old Portuguese cannon is so heavy possibly the weight of a baby elephant.
There were four longer ones and four shorter ones at that time around this fort.






In the photo background were two of my alma mater both beside each other.View from the jetty.

The far left is the Sacred Heart Convent Girls School,Bandar Hilir Primary English School(B.H.E.S) and then St Francis Instituition.(S.F.I)
A'Formosa is a short distance after Sacred Heart Convent School.

At that time in the 60's this seafront was already a large field where every evening there were rugby matches and football matches.
But today the seafront has become a reclaimed land with many shopping malls area,hospitals and business complexes.
Malacca is the home of many national footballers,hockey players,swimmers and athletes due to the availability of this field and proximity to the seaside which are all within walking distance.






Situated next to the Malacca river.

A Gothic style church with two tall towers seen in the far distance.
 Built in 1849 by Reverend Farve from France,this church was dedicated to Saint Francis Xavier, in his missionary work spreading Catholicism to South East Asia in 16th century.

The statue of this Saint can be seen on Saint Paul's Hill.
You'll noticed that the old Malacca River was just like Venice of the East where there were many "tongkangs"(barges) that will go out to the seato collect goods and tranport them to nearby godowns inland.





This stamp has a background picture of the clock tower in Kuala Lumpur's Dataran Merdeka area.









Olden days local police wore the brown colour khaki uniform.











The Japanese Invasion of Malaya, or Battle of Kota Bharu, began just after midnight on 8 December 1941 (local time) before the attack on Pearl Harbor.

 It was the first major battle of the Pacific War and was fought between ground forces of the British Indian Army and the Empire of Japan.
Kota Bahru is near to Sungai Golok,Thailand South.
Imagine the Japanese army could cycle through rough terrain over 400 kilometre to reach Malacca .








Malacca Historical Background(part3):  

3) Arrival of the British Empire.

In 1795, during the Napoleonic Wars, the British with the consent of the Netherlands occupied Dutch Melaka to forestall possible French interest in the area.

When Malacca was handed back to the Dutch in 1815, the British governor, Stamford Raffles, looked for an alternative base, and in 1819 he acquired Singapore from the Sultan of Johor.

The exchange of the British colony of Bencoolen for Malacca with the Dutch left the British as the sole colonial power on the peninsula.

The territories of the British were set up as free ports, attempting to break the monopoly held by other colonial powers and making them large bases of trade.
They allowed Britain to control all trade through the straits of Malacca.
British influence was increased by Malayan fears of Siamese expansionism, to which Britain made a useful counterweight.

During the 19th century the Malay Sultans aligned themselves to the British Empire, due to the benefits of associations with the British and the belief in superior British civilization.

In 1824 the Anglo-Dutch Treaty was signed and the Dutch evacuated Melaka and renounced all interest in Malaya, while the British recognised Dutch rule over the rest of the East Indies.

By 1826 the British controlled Penang, Malacca, Singapore and the island of Labuan, which they established as the crown colony of the Straits Settlements was administered first under the East India Company until 1867, when they were transferred to the Colonial Office in London.

The British also gained control of the north coast of Borneo, where Dutch rule had never been established.In 1841, a British adventurer, James Brooke, helped the Sultan of Brunei suppress a revolt, and in return received the title of White rajahs and the right to govern the Sarawak River District.

In 1881 the British North Borneo Company was granted control of the territory of British North Borneo, appointing a governor and legislature.
It was ruled from the office in London. Its status was similar to that of a British Protectorate, and like Sarawak it expanded at the expense of Brunei.





 Malacca Historical Background(final part):  

4) Prelude to formation of Malaysia

By 1910 the pattern of British rule in the Malay lands was established.
The Straits Settlements were a Crown Colony, ruled by a governor under the supervision of the Colonial Office in London.
Their population was about half Chinese, but all residents, regardless of race, were British subjects.
 The first four states to accept British residents, Perak, Selangor, Negeri Sembilan and Pahang, were termed the Federated Malay States: while technically independent, they were placed under a Resident-General in 1895, making them British colonies in all but name.

The Unfederated Malay States (Johore, Kedah, Kelantan, Perlis and Terengganu)(all except Johore was was part of the Siamese Kingdom) had a slightly larger degree of independence, although they were unable to resist the wishes of their British Residents for long.

Johore, as Britain’s closest ally in Malay affairs, had the privilege of a written constitution, which gave the Sultan the right to appoint his own Cabinet, but he was generally careful to consult the British first.

The one consolation to Malay pride was that the British allowed them a virtual monopoly of positions in the police and local military units, as well as a majority of those administrative positions open to non-Europeans.
 While the Chinese mostly built and paid for their own schools and colleges, importing teachers from China.

 The outbreak of war in the Pacific in December 1941 found the British in Malaya completely unprepared. The Japanese were thus able to attack from their bases in French Indo-China with impunity, and despite stubborn resistance from British, Australian and Indian forces, they overran Malaya in two months.

 During occupation, ethnic tensions were raised and nationalism grew.The Malayans were thus on the whole glad to see the British back in 1945, but things could not remain as they were before the war, and a stronger desire for independence grew.

Britain was bankrupt and the new Labour government was keen to withdraw its forces from the East as soon as possible. Colonial self-rule and eventual independence were now British policy.

The tide of colonial nationalism sweeping through Asia soon reached Malaya. In 1944 the British drew up plans for a Malayan Union, which would turn the Federated and Unfederated Malay States, plus Penang and Malacca (but not Singapore), into a single crown colony, with a view towards independence.

Finally on the 31st August 1957 ,Malaya got her independence from the British.

Monday, June 27, 2011

Tho Teng Yun Chinese Temple,Brunei

Located in the city centre of Bandar Seri Begawan,KH Soon Services and Rest House is the only cheap guesthouses to be found along Jalan Pemancha.

The room price noted is Brunei Dollar 30 per night. It's just a 5 minutes walk to the central bus terminal,less than 5 minutes walk to Tamu Kianggeh morning market,10 minutes walk to the boat pier and 10 minutes walk to Sultan Omar Ali Saifudeen grand mosque and one stop Yayasan Bolkiah Shopping Complex.

During the weekend,the shopping complex area is swarmed with migrant workers from Philippines,Thailand,Bangladesh and Indonesia.
There were Thais operating mini markets next to the bus terminal building on the 1st floor and this should be a good platform to promote Thai products beyond the shores.








In the Yayasan Bolkiah Complex,one local artist displayed his creativity in painting the Kampung Ayer.(Water Village)

 This water colour painting reflects the daily life of the waterfront village people travelling to and fro with the speed boat taxis.

 Way back in September of 1998, Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II of Britain made a tour of the Kampung Ayer and there's a pier named after Her Majesty.

A visitor to Kampung Ayer will be amazed by the good infrastructure within this community.In addition to houses, there are mosques, restaurants, shops,schools and even a kareoke lounge on stilts over the water









Just a short distance from the Tamu Kianggeh morning market is a Taoist Chinese temple.

The temple is called "Tho Teng Yun"(Temple of Flying Clouds).
Most of the Hokkien dialect speaking Chinese lives around the town centre.

Tao means path,a belief in living in harmony with nature and hence with the cosmos and the Universe. The ‘Three Jewels of Tao’:- 1) compassion, kindness, love 2) moderation, simplicity, frugality 3 ) humility, modesty At the main altar were three main deities.They are actually ancient legendary heroes.










A pig is being offered on thanksgiving day ritual.












A goat makes a good pair.















This festival tribute was further enhanced with prayer paraphernalia such as the paper sedan chair for the emperor god and joss papers which will later be burnt as offerings.








On both side of the temple's wall tiles were paintings of pictures of ancient Chinese warriors history.
 This is something very unique and very educational for those who want to learn about ancient China.
The paintings were just like an abstract from a history book.

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Haadyai Kim Yong market

After 13 hours of journey from Bangkok,the bus finally reached Haadyai bus terminal closed to 10:30pm.

 Haadyai is the 3rd largest city in Thailand and a more popular weekend destination for both Malaysian and Singaporean travellers.

Hardly do you see westerners(thai people will call "falang") except those on transit to Phuket or Penang spending their time in Haadyai.

Haadyai bus terminal(off Sripoowanart Road) is about 6km from town and is about 3km walking distance to DIANA shopping centre.
Another 1km straight ahead is the Florida Hotel,cross the road and you'll be near to town centre.

Just beside the DIANA complex is a man-made lake where during weekends there is an open air food bazzar surrounding the lake with live entertainment by local popular singers and is usually packed.
Most of the local people prefer to shop at this complex leaving those in town to the tourists.
DIANA complex is also a more popular hangout for the youngsters.








Haadyai Railway Station is just right in the middle of town and very convenient to all travelers.

If you were to stay at Cathay Guesthouse,it's just less than a kilometre walk.
 Hat Yai Train Station is the southernmost Major Rail 'Hub', Depot, and Junction on Thai Railways Southern Line for both passenger and Freight trains.

 The State Railways of Thailand's International Express leaves Hat Yai for Butterworth near Penang daily at 05:50, going via Padang Besar.

In the other direction, trains leave Butterworth at 13:15 and arrive in Hat Yai at 17:30.
The train then continues to Bangkok.






Kim Yong market(thai:"talad")is also in the town centre and a very busy morning market.
One can witness interesting activities ongoing and also savor some of the cheap food in the area.

Inside the building on the left were many stalls selling all sorts of items be it the wet market categories,groceries,footwears,garment,electronics and lots more.

It's quite a large market and a shoppers paradise to hunt for good quality made-in-thailand products.
 If you love stainless steel and silverware cooking utensils with the popular brand "ZEBRA",you need to cross the road to the otherside where there is another wholesale market(less than 2km away).

Thai vegetables name:-onion(hua hom),white onion(hua hom yai),carrot(hua phak kat daeng),cabbage(ga lam),basil leaf(bai gra phao),ginger(khing),chilli(prik),lettuce(phak gaat haawn),cucumber(dtaaeng gwaa),bean sprout(thua ngaawk),sweet potato(man thaeht)
 



The beautiful garland called"dookmalai" is part of the Thai society.
Each and every household on the prayers altar,temple statues and even in cars or buses will hang the garland which depict good luck.
Flowers are traditional at Thai Weddings as well as Western Weddings and make the big day very colourful and special.
They make the room, garden or hotel in which you have the ceremony, dinner and party very attractive and fragrant flowers can fill the area with a lovely smell. If you would like to get some artificial dook malai as souvenirs,there are small ones that cost 25baht




In fact dook malai(phuang malai) is a charming way to honor any festivals or occassions.

One of the most commonly used flowers are the yellow chrysanthemum which are skillfully tied with a banana stem fibres and some red ribbons.
White jasmine flowers with its sweet scented aroma adds to its transquility.
 Thai street vendor is selling her homemade delicious cakes like eggtart ,pineappletart,Thai milk cake,Thai mango cake and some exotic cake pudding.There is also the Thai cake(pui fai),a kind of wheat flour made dessert cake where the chinese also used to make as offering to chinese gods at the altar.


Inside the building ,the market stalls are plenty with a variety of stocks to cater to the masses.

Bargaining is a necessity here.The passageway are very narrow so you need to squeeze through.

Muslim traders seemed to be many here dealing with a variety of businesses.They were very hardworking and have a good sense of entrepreneurship.

This is the place to get fresh sea harvest which were very cheap.
A Muslim shopper walking pass the pork stalls. Thai Muslims also respect other religion rights and have a great degree of understanding. 


Muslim chicken vendor stall beside a pork stall.
This is something very unique to be found in Thailand where no other countries in Southeast Asia ever has such harmonious citizens interacting and mixing freely among themselves without the need to talk about religious segregation.
Though Thailand is a predominantly Buddhist country with multi-cultural and multi-ethnic population,Muslims conservatives are found all over Thailand and there are also mosque in every provinces.
The only exceptions are those hardcore deviantionist who thought that they have a big brother in a neighbouring country in the south where the present ruling leaders will sponsor their mischief by putting on a mask and pretending to be peace brokers...read here.


There were couple of pork(thai:muu) seller stalls around this huge Kim Yong market. The Chinese like to eat pork especially the famous dish called "bak kut teh" (meat bone tea).

It consists of meaty pork ribs simmered in a complex broth of herbs and spices for hours.
Bak kut teh is usually eaten with rice or noodles and often served with youtiao / cha kueh [yau char kwai] (strips of fried dough) for dipping into the soup. For lunch menu,maybe can try 'rice with barbeque pork on top' (thai:khaao muu daaeng), pork chops(thai:chin neuua muu),minced pork soup(thai:ba chaaw),sliced pork(thai:muu phaen),pork fried rice(thai:khaao phat muu)





Monks on morning alms round near Kim Yong Market.
It was the 3rd day of the Thai New Year(Songkran) and tourists can witness  this street scene.
 Buddhist monks and novice on morning alms round chanting video




Rice and dried food are normally being offered as alms.
This has been a Buddhist custom which has sustained for thousand of years. The person who offers the morning alms will get the effects as follow.
1. He will reborn during the Buddhist time every lifetime.
2. He will have a lot of properties.
3. His properties will not be ruin by any disaster.
 4. Most people will love him.
5. He will have many good friends.
6. He will be well–known from his good deeds.
7. He will have self–confident in public.
8. When he passes away, he will go to the fortunate realm.
9. He will attain Nirvana easily.




A newly refurbished temple monastery near the market.There was a small shrine on the 3rd floor near the roof top and this building has quite similarity in architectural design to those seen in Ho Chi Minh City,Vietnam.