Friday, February 17, 2012

Vang Vieng a dynamic paradise.

UNESCO heritage sites Vang Vieng main terminal hub is an ideal transit point for travellers who require a break journey travelling between the two world UNESCO Heritage sites of Luang Prabang in the North and Wat Phou at Champassak in the south.

This new bus terminal uses cement supplied by Lao Cement Company Ltd under the brand "Kating Thong" delivered from Vang Vieng Cement Plant II.

There were snack shops around and I had a baguette with no fillings that cost 5,000 kips.

 To use the washroom pay 2,000 kips.

The main trunk road in front is known as Route 13 which is the highway.
mountain trekking





Across the bus terminal were a few rows of shophouses with the main market towards the left.

No highrise buildings were seen so far which might spoil the spectacular view of the surrounding karst mountains.

It was very strange that these kind of limestone karst mountain also has its extension to central Vietnam.

Vang Vieng and Vinh(Vietnam) both has nearly the same latitude.

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is one of biggest karst mountains forests in the world and listed on the UNESCO's World heritage site in 2003.

The park borders the Hin Namno Nature Reserve in the province of Khammouane, Laos and Minh Hoa districts of central Quang Binh Province, in north-central Vietnam having 300 caves and grottoes with a total length of 70 km and also protects the ecosystem of limestone forest.

Phong Nha holds several world cave records, as it has the longest underground river, as well as the largest caverns and passageways.
aquaculture projects




VangVieng market is the main focal point among the locals which opened till late evening.

A very wide range of merchandise were traded here by the various ethnic groups from the local villages.

Fresh organic vegetables and fruits were abundant. Inside the market were couple of food stalls and I had a bowl of noodles (lao:fur) costing 10,000 kips.

Most of the fishes were from the aquaculture farms so seafood is not that easily available.
Japanese class





Kavin College is a small village school behind VangVieng market.

The school's building were all single storey and has only a few blocks.

Another private college is Lao Top College.


Vangvieng accomodations



VangVieng is full of fresh air,a quiet place to relax,beautiful landscape and a rural paradise.

Vang Vieng has an array of guesthouse,hotels,restaurants,internet cafes and tour agencies.

The first person to start a guesthouse was Mr Alom Thavonsouk way back in 1998 when he started building a bungalow beside the Nam Song River where his family and guests could enjoy as a retreat.

Thereafter more guesthouses and hotels started mushrooming around Thavonsouk Hotel and Resort Bungalow in Ban Viengkeo just opposite a primary school.

Nearby is Villa Nam Song,Le Jardin Organique and Ban Suon Riverside Bungalow.
teaching vacancy






Accomodations around Vang Vieng Town center area(Ban Viengkeo):  

Guesthouses opposite Lower Secondary school and teachers training college linking a toll bridge--Vilayvong Guesthouse,Vieng Thorra Guesthouse,Villa Vang Vieng Riverside and Thavisouk Hotel.

Sengdeun Guesthouse near fresh market and Wat Simixay Yaram.
korean barbeque restaurant






Family Guesthouse owned by the Koreans is just adjacent to Wat Si Sow Mong and a short distance from Lima 16 old runway.

Opposite Family is Sengkeo Guesthouse. Just opposite the temple is Savanh Vang Vieng Hotel and Poomchai Guesthouse.

Bee Bee,Phouna,Pany Hotel,Dokhoun II,Laos Haven Hotel and Spa,Tony Guesthouse,Nana Guesthouse,Kamphone Guesthouse,Kiane Thong Guesthouse are at same road as Elephant Crossing Hotel near the main hospital.

The heart of the town has the most cluster of guesthouses:  
Guesthouses in area parallel to old unused runway(Ban Savang)
Mr Chicken,Santi Villa,Vang Vieng,Sisavong,Central Backpackers,Malany Villa,Nazim,Chan Thanom,Babylon,Ngeun Phanith and Intina Hotel  

Guesthouses along lane to tubing platform, Green Discovery office,BCEL Atm machine Vieng Vilay,Chanpa Lao 2,Dok Khoun 1,Dokbua,Sanit Jai,Phoserdxay,Bourphong,Thavisouk,Phou Ang Kham,Phonesaksic  

Guesthouses facing the Nam Song River and Saysong Island starting near Wat That area: d'Rose resort,Spicy Laos,Mountain Riverview,Sunset Home,Nine Noi's,Champa Lao,Champa Lao Villa,Namsong Garden,BounTang,Vang Vieng Orange,Nantha Phone,Souksomboun,Dark Phut,Vang Vieng Orchid,Dorson,Khormthavee,Granview,Saysong and Popular View.

*Bountang Guest House Small, simple fan rooms and Vang Vieng's cheapest dorm; but one bathroom for 12 beds… Address: Th Luang Prabang - Vang Vieng Telephone: 023 511328

*Ban Sabai Bungalows These modern bungalows in a serene riverside setting are a good choice. Some rooms have a bathtub and there are two romantic 'singles' with a double bed and balcony over a pond. There is a riverside bar/restaurant.
Address: Xayoh Riverside Bungalows , Vang Vieng Telephone: 023 511088

Pha Tang Resort It's a full 17km north of Vang Vieng, but the setting here is as dramatic as it gets.
The rooms and bungalows sit on the Nam Song and the karst cliff of Phu Pha Tang rises almost on top of you.
Rooms are simple but attractive and comfortable, and the riverside restaurant is a good place for lunch even if you're not staying.
Telephone: 020 531 9573
chinese cuisines receipe


Chinese Restaurant along the Route 13 near the bus terminal.

Near Wat That were two other shops offering Chinese cuisines.

Most of the restaurants and eateries in town can be found along the road opposite the old runway.

 Names like Vieng Champa Restaurant,Nongbeat Restaurant,Lucky Restaurant,Ban Lao,DK3 Restaurant and even Korean Restaurant just opposite the Chillao Youth Hostel.

 A steak house is near the riverside opposite the walk bridge. Xoupphak (a salad made with local greens) is a popular appetizer.
bars and karaoke




Couple of bars to chill out can be found along Saysong Island such as Sunset Bar,Joker Bar,Bucket Bar,Smile Bar and Restaurant and Rock Bar.

 A few guesthouses like Sayphin Guesthouse,Riverside Backpackers Guesthouse,River Hills Bungalow,Riverside Bungalows Guesthouse were on the island.
gay guesthouses




Viengkham Guesthouse is slightly out of town off the main road across the bus terminal.

Further in towards the riverside was Vangxay Guesthouse that cost around 40,000 kips.





Laos ecotourism



There seems to be something for everyone here. Visitors who don’t want to play in the mud or jump into the river or can simply enjoy taking photographs and taking pleasure in the beauty of the surroundings.

Trekking,tubing,kayaking or rent a bicycle and cycle through the countryside trails can make you busy throughout the day.

There are caves to explore, organic farms to visit, and local culture and traditions to get lost in.
Laos silk clothings





Lao visitors, especially from Vientiane, like to shop at the market for fresh organic vegetables and fruits in the early morning.

Here, one can see the real life of Vangvieng where folks from different villages and ethnic groups sell and buy goods in the market.

Not only are many of the goods for sale here interesting and unusual,they are also cheaper than in Vientiane markets.

Mekong river cruise





Stunning view overlooking the Nam Song River with misty limestone karst mountains in the horizon.

Spending an idylic morning with a cup of Lao coffee or Lao-Lao beer to unwind yourself and fully enjoying the vacation.
The atmosphere is really amazing and incredible.
VangVieng tubing kayaking





. Vang Vieng is a wonderful oasis for most city folks to relax and enjoy the difference.

Due to the undulating nature of the topography and hilly,the weather here is slightly cooler towards year end.

From December to February, it is warm at day and cool at night. The highest mountain peak is Phardeang, About 10km north of the town,one can stand on a bridge to gaze at the amazing sight of Phatang mountain.

To explore Tham Phu Kham cave or Tham Jang cave near Vang Vieng, travelers can go by tuk tuk.
Another way is by bicycle or motorbike to travel around.

The Phoudindaeng Farm is 4km down the road on an organic fair trade farm that manufactures organic silk and mulberry shakes.
Phoudindaeng is one new economic zone where there is also a 50 hectares golf course as well.
Phonsavan Plains of Jars





Finally I had to leave Vang Vieng and my next destination will be Phonsavan-'The Plains of Jars'

I would prefer to go on a more spacious local bus but unfortunately this was unavailable.

Only the 9:30am airconditioned minivan was available with limited seats.Fare was 100,000 kips.

laos highland resort




 Little girl with her parents going back to their village in the highlands at Ban Nam-On which has an altitude of close to 1000metres. A big lorry truck is their main means of transportation.

Sunday, February 5, 2012

Nam Song River bamboo bridge

Vang Vieng is a small but growing town located in the middle between Vientiane and Luang Prabang.

Backpackers around the world will never miss Vang Vieng in their itinerary as this is one of the country’s most popular ecotourism destinations.

Here, the Nam Song River is the center of life. People from around the globe travel to Vang Vieng to enjoy kayaking, tubing, fishing, caving, and trekking along the river and its surrounding limestone cliffs.

While local tourism and agriculture businesses thrive off the pristine waters of the Nam Song, villagers rely on the river for their main sources of protein: fish and aquatic insects.

 Local communities’ livelihoods and the success of the ecotourism industry in Vang Vieng are inextricably linked to the river’s health and surrounding ecosystems.






Kayaking and tubing along the Nam Song River is among the most popular outdoor activities.

After renting your tube or kayak,a songtheaw will transport everyone 8km away from town upstream near the river edge.

Upon arrival, each “tuber” is presented with a cloth-band, generally adorned around the arm or head, and the first shots of the day Lao-Lao whiskey being offered.

As one floated along the Nam Song River,the beautiful surrounding landscape adds to the transquility.





It’s all good fun, drinking and dancing by the river, but when you add the free whisky, tubing and slides, it’s really dangerous so a slight discipline is necessary.

The concept of health and safety rules around here is lacking.You'll noticed that no life jackets were provided for 'tubers'.

As for the kids here jumping from the bamboo bridge,it was a daily affairs in the late evening where they had their bath in the Nam Song River.





Village boy cleaning body with soap.
There is no such thing as clean water showers or washbasins.










A two lane bamboo bridge over the Nam Song River.This was around 17:30peak hours with heavy usage,a non-tourist area.

Luckily I was here an hour earlier otherwise I would be caught in a difficult balancing situation. Imagine there was nothing to lean nor anything to hold onto,the most I could do was yell at them to stop and let me walk first.





Lady carrying a child walking along the bamboo bridge with ease.











 Young boy getting ready to jump.














Supporting structures of the bridge using sandalwood I guess.












Motorcyclist zooming through .














Having a funfilled dip at riverside.































Kids playing with muddy sandbank.














  Lao boy playing with rocks.























Drifting leisurely on a huge truck tube.





















Bamboo species of good quality used in bridge construction.





























Hot air balloon ride to get a birds eyeview of the hidden gems of Vang Vieng.

See the terrain surrounding Nam Song River priced at USD70(adults),USD40(children) for a 30-40 minutes flight.

Operates 3 times per day,sunrise (06:30),sun rise(07:30) and sunset (16:30)

During wet season between May till October no services.





Under the bridge.


If you’ve played your cards right, you have kept a close watch on your tube, and can return it to town to receive your deposit back.

But for most, your tube has been stolen, the sun has dropped behind the mountains and you’re struggling for breath as you swim down the river to the closest set of stairs.

With little to no lighting, and obnoxious amounts of alcohol in your system this is no easy task.



 Songtheaws will be available at this point in the event tubers wish to abort completing the finishing line either due to the hot weather or it's getting dark.















Meandering Nam Song River.

Saturday, February 4, 2012

Journey to Vang Vieng

Vientiane,the official name Nakhon Luang Vieng Chan has a time zone similar to Thailand,Cambodia,Indo-China.

The skies over here in Vientiane were already very bright at 7:00am and the sounds of the passing vehicles provided me the morning call.

 After a quick washup,I made my way downstairs to pay for the accomodation. Fortunately the owner was there otherwise I'll be delayed as the guesthouse has no receptionist.

 Having arrived at the Khun Din central bus terminal,the 8:00am bus was already at the designated bay.

Bought two rolls of baguette from my favourite stalls nearby each at 5,000 kips with rich fillings and then proceeded into the bus.





There were not many passengers and together with four westerners we occupied near the back seats.

The end seats were occupied with cartons of goods while bags of rice(the brand is khaosan) were laden on the passageway.

Imagine chickens in a rattan cage were also part of the passengers list. Seated in front of me was this friendly farmer who resided in VangVieng.His name was Thiethong.




8:30am:After travelling for about 25km distance,the bus had a brief stop at Sikeud,Mueng Nasaythong which I forsee will be the upcoming boomtown of suburban Vientiane.

 Overhere you have instituition of higher learning,factories,agrobase industries,ecotourism and a large concentration of young population.

Bounlead Instituition,Sekeud Primary School,Trio Export garment factory,Lao-Korea Vocational School,Houay Namyen Primary School(with assistance from Boo Young Group of South Korea),Ban Nalien village and a road sign to Hinkanna Waterfall were some of the landmarks.

 Sikeud (Sikeut) roughly has the same latitude of Pak Chom (Loei Province,Thailand)


8:45am:-Passing by Ban Houa Sang with large tracks of paddy field.

 9:00am:-Phonethong(Phon Thong) District,town name sounds similar to that in Roi-Et Province,Thailand.
Fa See Kam School undergoing renovation.Distance to Luang Prabang is 354km.

 9:30am:-Phonemong(Phonmouang) District. Mani Factory which is a dental equipment factory from Japan in the locality.
Couple of guesthouses around here such as Mithana,Phadsany,Mai Yang Lee and one Duang Chai nightclub.

9:50am:-Now at Ban Naboune,Distance to Hin Heub 35km,Vang Vieng 96km.

10:00am:-Phonsawang(Phonsavang) town. Som Chai Guesthouse and one Van San Resort nearby. A good base for those intending to explore villages near the huge Nam Ngum Dam.



  10:05am:-Ban Namcheng.
Ton Po Restaurant,Saylom Guesthouse,Pattana Guesthouse.Now 80km to Vangvieng.A right turn another 100m leads to Viengkham.

10:15am:-Phonhong town,a road junction to the Nam Ngum Dam.
Lots of shops around here. Touhta Resorts and Guesthouse,Toucham Province Ketsana Aquilira Project,Nam Chan River,Pele Guesthouse,Poppy Guesthouse,Phoukam Hotel were in the locality.

Distance to Luang Prabang 308km.

10:30am:-Hin Heup Tai.
The Phou Phanang National Biodiversity Conservation Area from western part of Vientiane ends here.

 11:00am:-Kasi town is still 115km to go.

11:05am:-Huay Souane,Huay Pong Song,Huay Hin Tit 1.

11:15am:-Huay Hin Tit 2.

11:20am:-Huay Dok May 1,Ban Tauthan,Hoay Phoung,Lan Fay,Hoay Somcanauk.
Still to go Vangvieng 27km,Luang Prabang 68km.Lunch break at a restaurant.
 



12:00noon:-Huay Pamom,a large lake.

12:10pm:-Huay Mo 1,Saysombon District.
Lehamvee Guesthouse,Khonsavanh Guesthouse,Khampong Guesthouse,Nuathang Guesthouse. Huay Hin Tit 2,Vang Huey,Nam Ngo,Kiek Cham(67 km)

12:45pm:-Huay Ngam,Vang Pong,Viengxay Village.I would suggest you get off the bus at this village where the old bus terminal is or if you see most villagers getting off here,do follow the crowd.


  12:50pm:-New Vangvieng Bus Terminal is 2km from the old town. Oudated travel book says,just walk across you'll be in town.That will be ending no where.

Travellers have to return and use the songtheaw.(10,000 kips) Within vicinity are accomodations like Thavikoun Guesthouse,Phouang Kham Hotel,Boua Khao Guesthouse,Kampaseth Hotel.To Luang Prabang(230km).





Welcome to Vangvieng District,a backpacker oriented town.
The main attractions of the town include inner tubing and kayaking on the Nam Song River, which is lined with bars selling Beer Lao and Lao-Lao, and equipped with rope swings, zip lines, and large decks for socializing.

 During the 1964-73 Vietnam War,the US developed an Air Force base in Vang Vieng and the runway was used by Air America.

The airstrip was then called 'Lima site 6'. The influx of backpackers attracted by the opportunities for adventure tourism in a limestone karst landscape is slowly transforming the economy of this area. Upgrading and reconstruction of the main road(National Highway 13) is underway and one have to bear with the extreme dust pollution.

A short distance across the new bus terminal is the Vang Vieng market(talad).







Ticketing counter of the new Vang Vieng Bus Terminal.
Counter staff do speak English and very helpful. Local buses to northern parts of Laos bypass the terminal.

One may catch the buses at the bus stop beside the main road  but not feasible due to the irregular time of arrival.







Transportation from Vang Viang.

Local bus to Vientiane:05:30,06:00,06:30,07:00,12:30,14:00 Fares:40,000 kips

 Minibus to Vientiane:09:00 Fares 60,000 kips

Express bus to Vientiane:13:00,14:00 Fares:60,000 kips.




  Minibus to Luang Prabang:09:00,14:00 Fares:100,000 kips

Minibus to Phonsavanh:09:30 Fares:100,000











Express Bus Luang Prabang:13:00 Fares:90,000 kips

















Fancy becoming a MAHOUT,that is a person who is the driver,keeper or handler of the elephant.

 A company is running the 1-6 days course. This can be quite interesting and fun activity as you'll be interacting with an elephant.












  Lorry being transformed into a bus.This cannot be called a songtheaw either. Villagers returning home.












  Right across the Vang Viang New Bus Terminal was a side road that leads to the Nam Song River.

A ten minutes walk from the main road. Beautiful sceneries of limestone karst mountains can be seen in the horizon.

It was a breathtaking walk along this countryside to be associated with nature.

The restaurant and bar nearby only opens in the late evening.





  Sechaleunkham Guesthouse was just beside the Nam Song River at the very end of the road.

The frontage faces the evening sunset. A very clean guesthouse possibly owned by a local ethnic chinese.







A huge double fan bedroom with hotwater bath,western toilet styling.Free mineral water provided.Room rates:60,000 kips.










During the night,surrounding temperature can be around 15 degree celsius.

The only disadvantage is that you'll be 2km from the main activity centre but near to the main market.

Sechaleunkham Guest House has a small coffeehouse with panoramic view beside the Nam Song River.











 Bamboo bridge across the Nam Song River.











Toll collection for using the bridge. Motor:5,000 kips
Bicycle:3,000 kips
Walking:2,000 kips.













On reaching the other side of the river,I could see a community with less than ten households some stay on stilt houses
.The women folks were around.No sign of any bridge crossing toll booth.









Village kids playing nearby. One of the juniors was demanding payment for the bridge crossing.
I was crossing the bridge at my own risks as there weren't any guardrails and the bridge was bouncing as I stepped on it.

The most worrying part will be if someone or a vehicle were to come from the other end.

Imagine I'll be losing my balance and will fall onto the river.




Village thatched house,no cement flooring inside,everything constructed with the use of bamboos and woods.













Passing through the village,I ended up in an open area which must be the paddy field and couldn't find any path that leads to any other villages.











Village women taking a bath on the Nam Song River.
 A closeup of the bamboo bridge can make you feel fearful of using it.








Looked like a private home.

Around here most of the tuk-tuk will be hanging around as most tubers might give up completing the final 2km laps.












Little boy at the nearby one and only one sundry shop with a restaurant. Most of the schoolboys and girls tend to hang around here as there was a school nearby.