Sunday, March 4, 2012

Xieng Khouang The Land of Heroes.

Xieng Khouang Province is a land of Laotian as well as the American heroes who both fought in the Secret War which also involves Thailand and North Vietnam.

Udon Thani in Thailand was the American headquarters airbase where Pan Am 707 planes and C47 transport planes supported in the covert operations in Laos.

 It was in 1961 when the Vietnam War started and the Pathet Lao, the communist Laos party has allied with North Vietnam while the Royal Laotian party which was the ruling government, allied with Thailand and the United States. In order to stop the spread of communism(communist Soviet bloc also in the shadow),Laos must not be overtaken so as to prevent a domino effect which will spill into Thailand and the rest of Southeast Asian countries.

Hence these three countries formed an alliance to counteract the communist aggressor which is thereby known as the Secret War.

The American CIA most vital backup in the war against communism was Vang Pao, a leader among Hmong hill tribesmen.
 The hostility between the communists of Laos and the Hmong minority was not only due to the Marxist enmity toward traditional cultures (and religion).

The Hmongs, long ago driven out of China, had been on the side of the French in the anti-colonial revolution.
 American intelligence agents who remained in Thailand after the defeat of Japan helped organize the Hmong and other ethnic minorities in an alliance with the Royal Lao Army against the Pathet Lao, counterpart of the Viet Cong.

The Secret War ended in the same year as the Vietnam War—1975 and subsequently the Pathet Lao communist party also took over Laos and the Hmongs that were left behind were seen as a threat and persecuted.

Thousands of Hmong people left Laos in 1975, at the end of what some historians have begun calling The Second Indochina War, taking refuge in sordid camps along the Thai border.

Slowly, Congress allowed some of the refugees to immigrate to the U.S.

Most settled in California, Wisconsin and Minnesota.
The Census estimates about 250,000 Hmongs and their descendants live in the U.S.

But few Americans even know their name. Vang Pao died at age 81.
 In early February 2011 the Associated Press brought worldwide attention to his six-day funeral in Fresno, California. His body lay in the Fresno convention center, where CIA veterans paid their respects amid Hmong ceremonies for a hero.






The plain of Jars is situated about 12 Km from Phonsavan.

There are over 300 stone jars scattered across the plateau.

 The size of the jars is varied from 1 to 3 meters high and up to 2.7 meters in diameters and the heaviest one is weighing 6 tons.

Information centre and village Ban Phai:
Ban Phai is a mix of lowland Lao, Hmong and Khmu families and has a high degree of traditional houses. The villagers are subsistence farmers and women weave or embroider in their free time.
Visit the information centre to learn more about this typical rural village and be information about the nearby granite jar site; have a relax drink on the hill side whilst admiring the stunning landscape.

Jar site at Phai village: this small jar sites consists of 36 granite jar and oppose the sandstone jars found at most site. It is easily accessible and within walking distance from the information centre.

Pha Keo village:this remote Hmong village, located on the upper slopes of the mountains, is only accessible by walking. The small farming community with 20 households has retained a high degree of traditional customs and living.
Stay at the community lodge, taste local cooked food prepared by villagers and enjoy the interaction with villagers.  

ThaLin Village: Ban ThaLin village is a traditional Hmong village located at the end of the road in a valley in the mountains and starting point of the trek. The scattered houses of the village are surrounded by farm fields.  

Jar site of PhaKeo village:on the mountain ridge near the village of Phakeo are several jar sites; the biggest group counts nearly 400 sandstone jars and is the most impressive recorded jar site so far. Located in a lush forest with wild orchids growing on jars, this site contains stone lids and grave markers with animal bas reliefs.

Tad Kha waterfall:the waterfall is very great place to relax, have a picnic and enjoy Loa’s natural beauty.
The community manages the place to keep it clean, maintains the trail and protects the forest.  

Tajok village:this Hmong, village is very good example of how war remains are integrated into daily lives. Take a walk to the village and discover bomb fences and herbs growing in bomb casings.

 Old Capital(about 30km southeast): Muang Khoun is the former capital of the Phuan kingdom and was the provincial administrative centre during French Indochina.
This rural centre of faded glory was heavily bombed at the end of the 1960’s and bears testimony to centuries of aggression. Traditional Tai Dam village basket and textile weaving can be seen at Nasi and you can buy directly from the handicraft maker.

Cemeteries: a small Vietnamese style stupa and cemetery on the way to the village of Ban Phai show the close relationship of Xiengkhouang in particular the old capital with Vietnam.

Other places of interest in Xieng Khouang. 

War Memorials:
South of Phonsavan are two war memorials set 1 km apart from each others. One is Lao war memorial and the other is Vietnamese war memorial.  

Muang Kham Cemetery:
Unique and worth a visit just for the unusual site of mixing together Thai Dam animist tombs, Catholic headstones and Laos (Buddhist) tombs, situated east of Phonosavan.  

That Foun (Old Xieng Khouang - Muang Khoun)(5): 
 This Buddhist stupa is also known as That Chomsi. It measures about 30 meters and was built in 1576.

 Muang Sui:
Ex-Americans landing site for planes during the Indochina War.

Tham Pa Caves(6): These two limestone caves contained hundreds of small Buddha figures, believed hidden from the Haw invasion a few centuries ago.





  Xieng Khouang Province is being administered by a provincial governor.










Entrance to Wat Santiphat on a hilltop.















Young monks of Wat Santiphat,from left Siphon,Duangdee and Tavon.













An English speaking monk Pratsomchai attended the evening language class at Asa Phattana College.

Surprisngly he comes from Thailand.
This side of building facing main Route 7, presumly must be the back entrance as another side road is the main entrance with gate to the four storey building.






 Phonsavan's busy large market behind the post office.
It closes around 8:00 pm at night.










 Fresh water fish 'tilapia'













Laotian Chinese girl doing cross-stitch embroidery. You can try the barbeque banana for 1,000kips.













  Wild boar for sale.








Wildlife on the table already dead.
Must be the  palm civet (musang).















  Porcupines.

















Fried noodles for 10,000 kips as breakfast in the market.










  Sticky rice bamboo containers (Tip Khao).

















  Multi layered roof architecture building being a local government official residence.








Young Lao boy just back from school.

Saturday, March 3, 2012

Phonsavan places to stay

Phonsavan is the gateway to the Plains of Jars about 435km northeast of Laos capital Vientiane.

The old capital Xieng Khouang was destroyed during the second Indochina War and was replaced by Phonsavan in the late 1970s.

Phonsavan lies in an altitude of near 1100metres above sea level and has a cool climate during winter months of between November to February so remember to carry some warm clothes as well when during the night temperature can be as low as 10 degree celcius.

March and May is the hot season while June till October will be the rainy season with a mean temperature of around 30 degree celcius.

Phonsavanh is home to various ethnic groups, such as the Phuan, whose ancestors once founded the kingdom of the same name, the Hmong, which New Years celebrations in Xieng Khouang are famous throughout Laos, and the Khmu and Tai Dam.

There is also a minority of Laotian Chinese and Vietnamese as well as some international workers and missionaries from Korea and the United States of America.

On arrival from Xieng Khouang Airport from Vientiane which has 4 flights per week,the main road leading to town center is the first sight of a "Welcome to Xieng Khouang" signboard on a beautiful small landscaped garden at a junction just across the Xieng Khouang Hotel(a top end hotel popular among dignitaries) and Post office.

Xieng Khouang province has a border with Luang Prabang and Huoaphanh in the north, Vietnam in the east, Bolikhamxay in the south, Vientiane and Xaysomboune in the west.

There are 8 districts in the Province of Xieng Khouang with a population of mere 264,000 according to year 2004 consensus: 1) Kham 2) Khoune 3) Morkmay 4) Nong Het 5) Paek 6) Phaxay 7) Phoukood 8) Thatom








Lao Youth Travel has been established since 2001 offering quality tours through Laos the Jewel of the Mekong.

The main office Classic Tours is at No:039-05,Fa NgumRoad, Mixay ,Vientiane Capital.
Tel +856-21 24 0931/0939/2802 Fax +856-21 21 3037 Mobile Phone +856-20 5550 7950

Discovery and Barefoot Tours Luang Prabang Branch, 410 Visounarath Road, Ban Visoun, Luang Prabang, Tel : 856-71 253340, Fax : 856 71 253340.

Pakse Office, Ban Sok Am Nouay, Unit 6, Pakse Champasak Province,
Tel/Fax : (856-31) 900405

Xieng Khouang Branch, 204 Road N7, Phonsavanh, Xieng Khouang,
Tel/Fax : (856-61) 211532 Phonsavan has close to 12 hotels and 36 guesthouses.






Sabaidee Guesthouse,my temporary homestay which is off the main Road 7 and less than 5 minutes to the main market right in the heart of Paek District,centrally located. Tel:020-5067990/020-5068174 Mail:Sabaidee2000@hotmail.com

Room rates from 30,000 kips onwards.
A mixed of tenants including some locals as well.Motorcycle and bicycle for rent available. Three star ratings.





The White Orchid Guest House offers 18 comfortable, clean and well-equipped guestrooms that present great value for money in the very centre of Phonsavan.

Room rates from USD10.00 Tel:+856 21 262530 White Orchid Guest House is a large green hotel located on the corner of the main street and Old Airport Road in the centre of Phonsavan town.

It is surrounded by restaurants, shops and tourist facilities and a short walk to the market and post office and just a 10-minute drive from the airport or provincial bus station and 15 minutes from the 1st Plain of Jars site.

From small and simple but good value
Economy rooms for the single traveler on the ground floor to large and spacious Superior and Executive rooms for 3 to 4 people featuring a lounge suite and dining table on the higher floors and everything in between.

White Orchid Guest House provides guests with a wealth of local information together with a laundry service, safe at reception and a restaurant with complimentary breakfast.
Pre-booked guests receive a complimentary airport or bus station transfer on arrival.






Along the side road from White Orchid at the very end is a very huge modern entertainment and convention centre in the midst of construction with nearly 80% completed.

The ultra modern cultural and entertainment stage has already been in commisioned and being used as a musical training center.

This is the old airport of Xieng Khouang land parcel in the Paek District.

The project started in early August year 2010 with the goal of being a trading center for Northern Laos and also tourism promotion.









Golden Mountain Garden Group is the tunrkey project developer of this 12.5 hectares concession rights wholly managed by the Lao citizens.

The exhibition center building has a very large floor space so in time to come this will be the focus of international companies converging here to tap the vast business opportunities in the IndoChina region.

Meanwhile a small night market has already started and the tourists draw is still not up to mark.

Night golfing is available at the far end.






Miss Dam,the cheerful reception of Golden Mountain Garden Resort is on hand to greet visitors who need assistance.

Tel:020-233 45645,061-213 899. Property division reception of Phoukham Group company Limited is near the main entrance.

Tel : (+856-61) 213 899 Mobile : (+856-20) 2234 5645, 2234 5657
This area is in the Phonsavanhxay Village.





Bungalows in Lao traditional style so unique constructed with teak timbers.

This is truly a place to relax in the cool highlands of Phonsavan.

Single room is 80,000kips while double is 100,000 kips.

Meanwhile everything is still new and low occupancy,very dark the whole surroundings at night.

In time to come,the rates will be a five star category so if you happened to be here in Phonsavan why not try having the experience living in a traditional Lao house.






Back to the main street of Route 7,Honsava II market is less than 2km north from town center and this is where the bus terminal is located.

The ticketing counters don't seemed to have anyone around.

It will be best to book bus tickets through your hotels or guesthouse because long distance buses only operated once in the early morning.

Otherwise you'll be entertained by the Vietnamese lady selling baguette.







Chittavanh Hotel same row as minibus and bus terminal Address: No,7Rd, Phone Savanh Tai, Peak District, Xieng Khouang, Laos, Phonsavan

Room rates from USD19 with free Wi-fi, Chittavanh Hotel is a large and bright peach colored hotel with inhouse restaurant, bar and karaoke rooms.




  Houphan Guesthouse is at the very far end of Road 7.
Tel:061-211260/020-2937300













Dok Khoune Hotel,a 4-star hotel is located in the centre of the main street, close to many shops, restaurants, tourist information, and Plain of Jars.

The Dok Khoune Hotel offers clean, comfortable guest rooms with a choice of double, twin or triple beds.

Room rates from 18.00. It has mountain views and featuring an impressive display of old artillery and ammunition left over from the ‘Secret War' behind reception where staff is friendly, inviting and helpful.

 The sister property, Dok Khoune Guesthouse, located across the road has a street front restaurant with a great, diverse and affordable menu with breakfast served here every morning.






Anouluck Kenlao Hotel is a mid-range hotel same row as White orchid guesthouse, The Anoulack Khen Lao Hotel is the only Phonsavan hotel to feature an elevator lift and one of the few with air-conditioned rooms for warmth or cooling.

Anoulack Khen Lao Hotel has a good range of facilities and services including a 5th floor restaurant, cars for rent and free airport or bus station transfer for arriving guests. Tel:06-213599,020-2152499
Room rates from:USd25.00





NamChai Guesthouse same row as Sabaidee Guesthouse. Tel:061-312095,020-2340546,2937744.

List of other accomodations:

1) Vansana Plain of Jars
 Professionally managed hotel with sister hotels in Luang Prabang and Vientiane. Modern, clean and spacious rooms at around 45-55 USD or more. Phonesavanhtai Village, Paek District, Xieng Khouang Province.
Tel: (856-61) 213 170.

2) Maly Hotel Located in the southern part of town. Very good restaurant. The better rooms are much nicer than the basement rooms. Idiosyncratic UXO and local ethnic themed decorations.
The owners are very knowledgeable about recent history.
LAK 150,000-500,000 Paek District, Xieng Khouang Province. Ban PhonsaAathneun
Tel: + 856 61 312 031

3) Xieng Khuang Hotel Free Wi-Fi. Big rooms. Functionalist Vietnamese architecture.
LAK160,000-640,000 Paek District, Xieng Khouang Province, Ban Phonsavansay
Tel: + 856 61 213 567

4) Thien Chaleung Guesthouse Thonghaihin Rd, Phonesaat Thai,towards the intersection with Route 10 near airport and Tourist Information Center. Tel:(+856)61312454 Rates from USd10.00

5) Duangkeomany Guesthouse Phonesaat Village, Paek District,opposite Information Centre office,5 minutes to airport. Free pickup.Rates from USD30.00

6) Banna Plains of Jars House. Road 7, Ban Turn,Paek District Has an impressive display of cluster munitions left over from the war in the lobby. Free pickup.Tel:(061)212 484. Rates from USD10.00

7) Phouxang Hotel Another hill top hotel. Rooms from 10-20 USD. Paek District, Xieng Khouang Province, Ban PhonKham Tel: +856 61 312 097

8) Nice Guesthouse The name tells it all. Popular with backpackers. Located on the main strip. LAK 60.000- LAK 80.000. English speaking staff. Paek District, Xieng Khouang Province. Ban Phonsavankang Tel: +856 61 312 454

9) Vanaloun Guesthouse Paek District, Xieng Khouang Province. City Center. rooms are LAK 50,000 Ban Phonsavan-kang SengTavan Guesthouse Paek District, Xieng Khouang Province, Ban Phonsavannue. rooms are LAK 50,000-60,000
Tel: +856 61 211 131

10) Koukham Guesthouse Paek District, Xieng Khouang Province. Rooms are LAK 50,000-60,000 Ban Phonsavanxay Tel: +856 61 211 216

11) Samphan DouangPaekob Guesthouse Paek District, Xieng Khouang Province Ban Nguay. Rooms are LAK 50,000. Tel: +856 61 212 338

12) Say Pha Souk Guesthouse Paek District, Xieng Khouang Province, Ban nguay. Rooms are LAK 50,000 Tel: 856 20 587 5284

13) LaPhoneKham Guesthouse Paek District, Xieng Khouang Province, Ban Numngum, located on the road to Plains of Jars,opposite the information Center, provincial Tourism Department Xiengkhuang Rooms are LAK 50,000

14) Kong Keo Guesthouse

Sunday, February 26, 2012

Vangvieng to Phonsavan by van

minivan bookingPunctually the minivan left Vangvieng bus terminal at 9:30am enroute to Phonsavan.
There were four westerners while the rest were locals and a Lao man in uniform with cap was sitting beside me.
Shortly ten minutes into the journey,the minivan stopped beside a primary school in Ban Huay Songao(km159) to fetch two kids who will be travelling along with their parents.

Km159 is north of Vangvieng where you have the Water Fun Park with giant swing,water slider and river plunge.

That's the tubing starting point and a venue for Wild-Wild West partying but with caution "don't drink and drive" as one is solely responsible for his own action.

Limited guesthouses in the vicinity,Lao Hao Resort,Amy Guesthouse,Greenview Guesthouse and Thavisock Khamsong.

At Ban Phou Dindeng is the Aliya Guesthouse(near Greenview Guesthouse and Organic Farm and Cafe) Km160 is near the river tributary where Nam Song and Nam Po meets.
You have the Phalai Resort here and rock climbing venue.

Between Km162/3 is the river access for kayakers.Off the main road is the ethnic school beside a Buddhist temple,VangVieng Eco Lodge and camping ground.

It will be interesting if one could rent a bicycle and cycle along the river trails in this serene countryside. Km167 is the Phone Ngam Primary School and signboard direction to Pha Tho and Kieo Cave.

Km169 is the final bicycle trail and this area is near the Tham Hoi Tham Loop and Elephant Cave beside Tham Xang Xaylam Temple.

Tham Nam is the water cave where you float inside the cave and see the beautiful rock formations of stalacmites and stalagtites.

Entrance fees:10,000 kips.

10:30am:We arrived in Kasi which is 43km from VangVieng.This small little town with a petrol station is an ideal stopover for the long distance truck drivers.

Somchith Guest House (Nang Som Jit; Route 13) Rooms US$1.50. If you find yourself in Kasi overnight, Somchith, near the noodle stands above a shop house restaurant in the middle of town, offers decent two-bed rooms with shared bath.

11:00am:Ban Phounkham town in Vieng Kham district,lunch break at one Popular Restaurant.A bowl of noodles cost 15,000 kips.
Xieng Khoaung Province

12:00noon:Had a stopover at busy Phou Khoun town,about 44km north of Kasi town.
This is the T-junction between Route 13 and Route 7 going east into Xieng Khouang Province while the north is Luang Prabang.

Muang Phou Khoun was the site of a former French fort. The brick and stucco ruins of what may have been an officers quarters (some say it was an administration office for the construction of Route 13 early in the 20th century) were still visible, overlooking a deep valley.
Each room had its own fireplace, a testimony to the areas often chilly cool-season temperatures.

The 44km section of highway between Kasi and Muang Phou Khoun, which runs along a mountain ridge with excellent views, is an area where rebel attacks have occurred years back but not now.

Farther north towards Luang Prabang the scenery becomes even more spectacular, with lots of craggy mountain peaks and among the highest limestone formations in South-East Asia - a remote and desolate landscape tailor-made for rebels.

 Beginning around Km 228, you'll start getting views of Phu Pha, a craggy limestone peak considered holy to animist hill tribes and Buddhists alike, on your right.
Indonesian layer cake




This piece looked like the famous Indonesian layer cake but no it's the agarwood.

Agarwood or oodh (or just agar) is a dark resinous heartwood that forms in Aquilaria and Gyrinops, trees (large evergreens native to southeast Asia) when they become infected with a type of mold.

Prior to infection, the heartwood is relatively light and pale coloured, however as the infection progresses, the tree produces a dark aromatic resin in response to the attack, which results in a very dense, dark, resin embedded heartwood.

The resin embedded wood is commonly called gaharu, jinko, aloeswood, agarwood, or oud (not to be confused with 'Bakhoor') and is valued in many cultures for its distinctive fragrance, and thus is used for incense and perfumes.
agarwood furnitures and sculptures



These agarwood looked like first grade to me. Agarwood is said to be the most expensive wood in the world with prices over US$10,000/kg for higher quality product.

 The tree has many names including eaglewood, aloeswood, gaharu (Indonesia), ood, oudh, oodh (Arabic), chen xiang (Chinese), pau d'aguila (Portuguese), bois d'aigle (French)and Adlerholz (German).

 Agarwood cannot be traded internationally without a the International Trade of Endangered Species (CITES) permit .

The main importing countries are Taiwan, the UAE, Saudi Arabia and Japan .

Prices of agarwood from natural forests can exceed $10,000/kg. Cultivated agarwood from plantation trees is currently retailing at the equivalent of US$5,000/kg.

Oil prices are typically around US$8,000/kg but high quality oil can sell for over US$50,000/kg. Agarwood smoke (from burning agarwood) and oil are used as customary perfume in the Middle East.In Europe, agarwood oil is a key component in the perfume M7 by Yves Saint Laurent.

In the East, agarwood is valued in Aurvedic, Tibetan and East Asian medicine for its ability to treat a range of disorders. Agarwood is also used by Muslims, Buddhists and Hindus as incense in religious ceremonies.

Agarwood essences are used to fragrance soaps and shampoos, and the popularity of highly priced essential oils reinforces the value of agarwood derivatives.

In Taiwan agarwood is an aromatic ingredient in local wines.
Phonsavan the Plains of Jars



  3:00pm:Finally I arrived in Phonsavan's minivan terminal (about 5 hours journey)which was beside a big shopping arcade and about 3km from the main town center,a very straight stretch of wide road.

If you do not have any prebooking hotels or guesthouses like me don't worry.Representatives from the respective hotels and guesthouses will approach everyone on arrival showing their brochures and room rates.

The representatives were very diplomatic and professional leaving guests to make their own choices.Free transport provided.
hotels and guesthouse



I have chosen Sabaidee Guesthouse which has a fan double bed room and washroom with hotwater outside.
Room rates is 30,000 kips.

Despite the free pickup,I decided to make a leisurely walk to the guesthouse and locate myself.

The stalls and bazaar has clothings mostly for the cool season prevailing now.
Less than 2km from town center is the bus terminal compound with stalls surrounding it.
Vientiane aircond bus





Making a survey of the buses timetable is one most important task as a backpacker to plan ahead.

 Phonsavan is the provincial capital of Xieng Khouang Province.

Here they list it as Xieng Khouang to the following destinations: -airbus here denotes non aircon,get outside fresh air.

Vientiane by airbus,110,000 kips available 07:00,08:00,10:30,18:40,20:00(VIP=130,000kips)

 Luang Prabang and Vangvieng ,90,000 kips only one each at 07:30am.

To Xam Neua by small bus at 07:00am.




Xieng Khouang Hotel is the first sight of a modern building on reaching the town centre which faces a T-junction.

Located on the main road. Free Wi-Fi. Big rooms. Functionalist Vietnamese architecture (= very austere, extremely ugly to Western taste). US$24-30, single 150.000 kips including breakfast. Tel:+ 856 61 213 567.

steakhouse pub



After a row of shophouses with Craters Pub in the middle,a side road towards the right leads to where my planned guesthouse is located.

 Craters caters to Western tastes with a menu of pizza, burgers and other favourites.

It does have a nice interior design compared to the other places in town.







Old bomb shells displayed as ornamental in front of Craters Pub also acting as a fence.

From 1964 to 1973, the U.S. flew 500,000 missions and dropped two million tons of bombs on Laos.

Neither the American people nor Congress were told about the campaign, which began in earnest in 1968, following President Lyndon B. Johnson’s announcement that all air, naval, and artillery bombardment of Vietnam would cease.

Missions were focused on two areas of Laos:
in the north they were directed against the Pathet Lao communist insurgents who were fighting the Royal Lao Army, while bombings in the south targeted the Ho Chi Minh Trail in a futile attempt to cut off supplies being delivered to North Vietnam .
Vietnam War peripherals insignias








260 million bombies were dropped by the USA during the Secret War in Laos, when the USA tried to secretly and futilely thwart the spread of communism in Southeast Asia.

The Secret War was covertly funded by the CIA and orchestrated by USAID in the American Embassy in Vientiane.

Unfortunately, of the 260 million bombies that were dropped, one-third were left unexploded. They lay quietly to be discovered by unsuspecting farmers trying to make a living, growing rice field and hitting a bombie while preparing their ricefield; or by innocent and naturally curious children who happened to discover a bombie that decides to activate by sudden movement (kids picking it up).