Seafood galore in Gulangyu Island

Along the narrow streets of Gulangyu Island near the ferry wharf were many seafood stalls.

 Seafood (pinyin:haixian) is all over the place in Xiamen, and especially in Gulangyu.

Xiamen Island physical features is like the shape of an oyster (pinyin:Muli) surrounded by sea on all sides so daily supplies of fresh seafood is in abundance.

To most tourists browsing the many seafood stalls,the temptation and urge to try out some of the cuisines is unavoidable.


Most of the university students from other provinces spent their summer vacation here and they were so used to the queing system when ordering meals.

 Economy take-away meal such as these stalls were most sort after by budget travellers .

Almost all the restaurants have menu prices with photos of the cuisines.
 Deep-fried five-flavor rolls is one of Xiamen’s most famous delicacies.
 Xiamen food is dominated by South Fujian cuisine, comblined with Taiwan and Chaoshan flavor. The cooking methods include frying, steaming, boiling, sauting, and others.
The seafood cooking in Xiamen is particularly outstanding with its freshness and slight spice.






These are Three Spot Crabs (pangxie)  are rich in protein.Scientific name:Portunus sanguinolentus.

 One particular restaurant on the mainland Xiao Yan Jing Da Pai Dang at No. 7 Middle Hubin Road, Siming District, Xiamen has the most exceptional seafood cookings so it's not necessary to join the tourists crowds here.










Crispy fried oysters mixed with eggs,sweet potato flour,and minced garlic specially prepared and placed on large oyster shells.










Steamed crabs ready to serve.
These crabs are the common mud crabs which are also abundant in Phuket,Pattaya,Surathani and a large section of Indonesian islands.










Grilled squids and threaded pork meat.
The use of traditional wooden  skewers in grilling  is a common street stalls food display throughout Asia.











 Grilled seabass fishes. Seabass are found in the shallower regions of warm and tropical seas.Sea bass are rather perchlike fish. The more or less elongated body has small scales, the mouth is large.






A variety of seafood selection.
 Seafood is a part of a healthy balanced diet. The American Heart Association recommends that no more than 300 mg of cholesterol per day is healthy for adults. Most of the commonly eaten seafood selections are well below this parameter.
 For example, 3 oz. of lobster contains 61 mg of cholesterol; 3 oz. of crab contains 80 mg of cholesterol. There are 166 mg in a serving of 15 shrimp, and 48 mg in a serving of five mussels. Six oysters contain 58 mg of cholesterol, and a serving of four scallops has less than 34 mg.







Abalone salad. In Chinese speaking regions, abalone are commonly known as 'bao yu', and sometimes forms part of a Chinese banquet. Similar to shark fin soup or bird's nest soup, it is considered a luxury item, and is traditionally reserved for special occasions such as weddings and other celebrations. However, the availability of commercially farmed abalone has allowed more common consumption of this once rare delicacy.

 Jellyfish and octopus salad. Korean jellyfish dish are called "haepari naegnchi. On the whole,jellyfish is tasteless but has its crunchy texture.







Shellfish is often avoided by many because of the thought that it raises bad cholesterol levels. According to a study at the University of Washington, this is a misconception and shellfish pose no danger to cholesterol levels. This study found that some of the most commonly eaten shellfish, including oysters, crabs, clams, shrimp and mussels, showed no evidence of raising cholesterol levels. Shrimp had no effect on cholesterol levels. Crabs and clams actually lowered the LDL levels (bad cholesterol). Mussels and oysters also lowered LDL, while raising HDLs. Fish is also good for increasing good cholesterol in your blood.













































































Beautiful Island Hotel Bread and Breakfast. (Lizhi Dao Jiudian, 丽之岛酒店)
5 minute walk from ferry.
Small rooms but clean and cheap.
Tel: 206-3309
Add: #133 Longtou Lu (龙头路),








Gulangyu Giant sea snails.













Grilled lobsters and crabs. Deep frying, and using butter and sauces will increase the cholesterol content of seafood or any other food. Try broiling, grilling or baking when preparing seafood and cook with very little oil. 

















Dried sea cucumber.











Spotted Anguilla eel.
Price:228 Yuan per half kilogram.







Large oyster can fetch a price of 198Yuan per 500gm while the smaller species are 38 Yuan per half kilograms .




















Ray fish, price:128 Yuan per half kilo












Grouper fish normally prepared as stir-fried or steamed .













'da zha xie' - the Chinese mitten crab (Eriocheir Sinensis). The most expensive crabs in the country come from Yangcheng Lake,Jiangsu Province, which is close to Shanghai and is credited with being the cradle of China's crab culture. Price:318 Yuan per half kilo.















Mantis shrimp priced at 39Yuan per half kilo.


















Fresh lively lobster at 398 Yuan per half kilo.













Clams and sea snails priced at 88 Yuan and 98 yuan per half kilos respectively.

bamboo clams.




















Live eel.









There is one shop selling old antiques items and among them was this Old portable gramophone.
These were common entertaining home gadgets way back in the early 60s and 70s before the emergence of compact disc.
The needle head or stylus that transmit the soundwaves from the phonogram is quite costly to replace.
Those days we will always hunt for albums sung by Elvis Presley,Neil Sedaka,Frank Sinatra,Stevie Wonder,Simon & Garfunkel,the Beatles,the Rolling Stones and many other legendary singers.

Exploring Gulangyu Island

Gulangyu Island is known as the piano island because people here love the piano.

 As early as 1913, students in schools run by foreigners started learning the piano. The enthusiasm for music later spread to more ordinary people on the island.

 Many piano families have since then come into being and produced accomplished musicians.
 No tourist can afford to miss one attraction located on the island -- the nation's largest piano museum.

Entrance fee to Ou Lang Yu Piano Museum is free.

Other venues entrance fees:
C) Statue Of Koxinga(Zheng Chenggong) (Haoyue Garden), (5 minutes walk south east of the ferry terimal)=15 Yuan
A) Sunlight Rock. This is the highest point on the island with great views as far as Xiamen. Entry included into Buddhist temple, the Aviary and a cable car ride to the aviary on Yingxiong Hill. Warning: climbing to the top involves a lot of stairs, so probably not good for young children or the elderly=60 Yuan.
E) International Calligraphic Carving Art Gallery. A small gallery of carved calligraphy from Chinese, Japanese, and Korean artists. Admission=10 Yuan. Entrance near the main gate of Shuzhuang Garden.




Gulangyu is really a Shangri-la-like tourist attraction.
No road vehicles are allowed here, bicycles are the only means of transportation.
 In recent years, some battery-powered sightseeing vehicles commute from the beach to the port, as more and more people come to Gulangyu sanatorium to recuperate.
Tourists who prefer not to walk can hop into the electric cars.  

 Underwater World, (from the ferry terminal, walk to the right and look for the big blue building). Admission is a steep 90 Yuan for adults,50 Yuan for children/seniors.
 Ocyopus statue photo of one of Jules Verne novels Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea (1870). The French author who pioneered the science fiction storybook also wrote A Journey to the Center of the Earth and Around the World in Eighty Days.

American are the first few 'laowai'(foreigners) to set up an embassy in Xiamen.
One of America’s oldest posts in the Far East which has played a pivotal role in promoting America’s relationship with China is still the Consulate in Guangzhou as early as during George Washington presidency.
In 1784, the American merchant ship Empress of China reached what was then known as the port of Canton transporting ginseng to trade for Chinese black tea.
This Consulate building in Gulangyu looked neglected except for an alsatian dog roaming around the compound.
It is a preserved heritage building taken over by the Xiamen local authorities since 13th February 2006 when the Americans shifted out on November 2004.
The United States and China formally re-established diplomatic relations on January 1, 1979 with the visit of Secretary of State Henry Kissinger and President Richard Nixon.


One of the most leisurely way to see Gulangyu is a stroll around the perimeter-past beaches, tropical gardens, and exquisite colonial villas once occupied by European merchants, rich overseas Chinese, and the staff of 13 countries' consulates.


 This old colonial mansion is on the other side of Gulangyu's Island has a flowery craft with a crown on the top frontage so must be a British influence.

The other two storey building in front is a Chinese hotel-Dan Guang Ziu Ziu Hotel,Tel:0592-219 4299 or visit website: http://www.cn999999999.cn/

Restaurant owners transporting their wares from the 'tongkang' (cargo boats) near the Lundu pier. Ascending the slope is a tedious job as the front driver is using his upmost shoulder strength to pull the cart.
Since vehicles were disallowed in this island,the people here were used to this routine tasks.  

Antiques shop.The old Chinese mechanical clocks,old telephones,typewriter,coins,banknotes,stamps and anything that is old can be sourced from this shop.





Must be a statue of a fisherman with a big fat catch.
The blue skyscraper building across the straits is the Fortune Center,the second tallest building in Xiamen. Gulangyu Island

The physical topography is very undulating and hilly.
There's a tunnel linking to the island's Neicuo's community area.
Besides,the road alleys are in the form of a stairways so you must be very fit to walk around here.







The tunnel access is about 3km long and most of the Chinese hotels are towards the right end of the tunnel exit.

While most of the population lives near the town and its ferry docks, habitations are spread across the island.
Those living or working further out must walk to their destinations as there is no viable public transit on the island.
The distances are exacerbated by the hills and by the humid heat that bathes the region much of the year. There are electric carts that circle the island, but these are ridiculously expensive and aimed squarely at the tourist trade.
A 30-minute ride around the island costs 50 Yuan ($6 US), far beyond practical range for local use. There are several tunnels, some quite long and even housing shops, that cut down on hot sweaty climbs over hills.

These gentlemen have the mighty horsepower to pull the goods laden cart along the undulating roads.

  A wealthy businessman mansion with a colonial design entrance arch.

Jiaoguo Hotel is located after the tunnel area and is way out from the pier.
You need to walk quite far in.

Other Accomodations around Gulangyu

1) Gulangyu Bayview Inn (pinyin:Wanjing Luiguan 湾景旅馆) Near harbor, off Longtou Rd
 Tel: 2060466 FAX: 2060468
E-mail: bayviewinn@163.cn

2) Beautiful Island Hotel,(Līzhī Dǎo Jiúdiàn, 丽之岛酒店) 5 minute walk from ferry.
Tel: 2063309

3) Gulangyu International Youth Hostel (Xiamen Gulangyu Guojì Qingnian Luishe 厦门鼓浪屿国际青年旅舍) Only 100 meters from ferry, to the left and up the hill (pass by red-brick former British Consulate).
Tel: 2066066 Add: #18 Lùjiāo Lù 鹿礁路18号 E-mail: yha@yhagly.com

4) Gulangyu Haihua Holiday Cottage (Hǎihuá Dùjià Wū海华度假屋) Good view of Sunlight Rock.
Tel: 2066935 Add: #28 Zhōnghuá Lù 中华路28号

5) Gulangyu Joyful Guest Tavern (Bīnyuè Kèzhàn 宾悦客栈) Cheapest backpacker hangout;Beds from 26 Yuan per night. Two-person room 160 Yuan.
Tel: 2063520 Add: #44 Anhai Lù, by Trinity Church (安海路44号,三一堂旁边)

6) Gulangyu Haihua Holiday Cottage (Hǎihuá Dùjià Wū海华度假屋) Rooms: 200 Yuan per night; 80 Yuan in low season.
Tel: 2066935 Add: #28 Zhōnghuá Lù 中华路28号 7) Gulangyu Villa Hotel (Gǔlàngyǔ Biéshù Jiúdiàn 鼓浪别墅酒店)Tel: 2063280
Add: #14 Gǔshēng Lù Zip 361002 鼓声路14号 E-mail: glvhotel@public.xm.fj.cn

8) YoYo Inn No.66 Quanzhou Road, Gulangyu, Xiamen (10 minutes from ferry pier)

Manually transporting wooden doors on a push cart to development site.This will be quite a distance inland.











Boat laden with sand and garvels berthing beside a new pier which is under construction.











 Road sweeper carting dried leaves along the quiet street of Gulangyu.
















Old residential houses. The great majority of dwellings are of more recent vintage and domestic style, and while modest seem in decent repair.

The old method of human labour in carrying rocks for building development.









  A side alley with stairways to the other street.

Carting bags of flour. The only observable hazard for pedestrians in Gulangyu is when these carts are being negotiated downhill under load.
 Lacking mechanical brakes, they rely on their human handlers for control. The blissful stroller receives but a second or two of warning from the rumbling of a near-runaway cart before it careens past, its handler's legs straining to keep it from crashing into something or someone. Accidents must be frequent.

In addition to the beauty of the natural scenery, Gulangyu also enjoys a reputation for its delicious snacks cafes and fresh seafood restaurants. Pan Xiaolian Mango Yogurt, on No.8, Longtou Road (near the Gulangyu Ferry Terminal) specialty is the mango yogurt costing CNY 20 per cup.

Woman carrying carton boxes for recycling. Scene of local residents carrying personal cargo on small wagons, balanced on poles over the shoulder, or just in bags in their hands are common sights.





Smiling Piggy statue outside a shop.

Baby sleeping on a wrong size baby cot.

View of Xiamen skyscrapers along Lujiang Dao from Gulangyu Island.











Back on the mainland at the riverside park were a few water cooler dispenser. This little puppy was also thirsty.

Xiamen ferry terminal.

Tong'an Road straight from Zhongshan Park in Gonyuan Dong Lu was the early settlement of Xiamen Island.

Old colonial building features can be seen around Tong'an Road which is quite near to the ferry wharf terminal.

The city was a treaty port in the 19th century and one of the four original Special Economic Zones (the other three are Shenzen,Zhuhai,Shantou in Guangdong province)opened to foreign investment and trade when China began economic reforms in the early 1980s.

 In fact long before China's open door policy,the mainland Chinese were already drawn to the rich entrepots of Malacca,Singapore, Manila, and Batavia(Jakarta).

As trade developed between Europe and Asia in the following centuries,they were also attracted in considerable numbers to work in Ayutthaya, Thailand.

In 1842, Great Britain and China signed the Treaty of Nanking, which ceded the island of Hong Kong to Britain and opened five treaty ports to British trade and residence, including Xiamen (Amoy) and Fuzhou (Foochow) in Fujian Province.




British colonial architectural influence adds glamour to Xiamen.

The first British ship called at Xiamen (Amoy) in 1685.

Other nations, such as Denmark, France, the Netherlands, and Sweden, were quick to follow.

The first American traders arrived in 1784 after their war of independence.

 The British, however, dominated this renewed trade with China from the start, and around 1800 British trading vessels to China amounted to twice as many as all other nations combined.




Millennium Harbourview Hotel,five star luxury international hotel along Zhenhai Lu.

The change to the new millennium and China joining the World Trade Organisation has undoubtedly given Xiamen the new impetus.

 It is very popular as an international as well as domestic tourist destination.

Having been given the status as “Free Trade Zone”,years of frantic construction has given Xiamen a brand new look with improved streets, world class buildings, advanced telecommunication and state of the art landscaping.






Bangkok Bank China's head office is in Shanghai while the Xiamen Branch is at Xiamen Top Plaza, No.2 Zhenhai Road,beside the Tegoo Hotel in the East tower block.

 Many multi-national companies have established their presence in nearby office tower blocks as Xiamen is playing an important role in driving the economic growth of Southeastern China.

 



Statue beside Xiamen Swiss International Hotel on Lujiang Dao(Avenue),a stretch of coastal road where the three ferry pier is also located.

Along Lujiang Dao were many high rise magnificient modern skyscrapers facing the Xiamen Channel.

During the night,the whole area is like a fairyland with colourful neon lights providing the ambience.

The city is lively and bustling, and the downtown area is a great place to walk around, especially in the evening.

It seems to have more nightlife than the rest of China put together. People stroll around the streets, eat at stalls by the side of the road, go to the cinema or to one of the many restaurants and wine shops. Xiamen's second tallest building(43 floors) the Fortune Center is also in the vicinity.

To have a good panoramic view of the harbour and the distant Gulangyu Island,visit the rooftop restaurant of Lujiang Hotel.







Statues depicting fun and happiness at the People's Park near the ferry jetties.










Most of the senior citizens of Xiamen tend to spend their fruitful time here engaged in all kinds of recreational activities.



If Laos,Thailand and Cambodia have their Morlum singing group,the Teochew(Chaozhou) people also have the same match.

 One typical traditional instrument called 'Erhu '(二胡) which is a two-stringed bowed musical instrument quite similar to Western violin being used as a solo instrument as well as in small ensembles and large orchestras.






  Chinese traditional skill game and strategic challenge the 'Pai Gow' poker game.

 A very popular game during the early 60's also in the British colony of Malacca and Singapore where there were so many of these gambling dens to cater for the coolies working at the riverside quay.

 Pai Gow – the tile game – arrived in the America’s in the 19th century when Chinese immigrants came to the U.S. in search of work on the railroads. Pai Gow was a big hit among Americans who appreciated its subtle techniques and strategies.

However, many poker players found Pai Gow tiles cumbersome and difficult to keep on hand. The game gradually morphed into a form of poker, wherein traditional playing cards and standardized hand ranking replaced the heavy Pai Gow tiles.







 Gulangyu Island a short distance across Xiamen Channel from the jetty pier(pinyin:matou) and the statue standing on the cliff is General Zheng Chenggong.

The island became a foreign enclave following the Treaty of Nanking in 1842.

As a place of residence for Westerners during Xiamen's colonial past, Gulangyu is famous for its architecture and for hosting China's only piano museum, giving it the nickname of "Piano Island" or "The Town of Pianos" (鋼琴之鄉) or "The Island of Music" (音樂之島).

There are over 200 pianos on this island. The Chinese name also has musical roots, as 'gu lang' means drum waves because of the sound generated by the ocean waves hitting the reefs. Yu means "islet".

Gulangyu is a tourists island and the crowds at the ferry pier is very large even till the night.

The ferries were operated by Xiamen Ferry Company and tickets (plastic token) can be bought on the spot at the far end compound of Heping Matou (pier)

The fares per person to and fro is 8 Yuan.

There were two piers on the Gulangyu Island side,the main Lundu pier and Sanqiutian pier which is slightly further north.

The night ferry to Sanqiutian is 10 Yuan to and fro.

Travel time is 15 minutes operating from 06:00 -21:00 hrs which is the tourists hours and subsequently 21:10,21:20,21;40,22:00,22:20,22:40,23:00,23:20,23:40 and last 0:30.

After 22:00 onwards happy hours free.Coming back mainland last trip:24:00 hrs.

Ferry round Gulangyu Island tour:15 Yuan.

Cruising the waters between Xiamen and Kinmen Island fares per person is 126Yuan.

Kinmen or Jinmen or Quemoy is a small archipelago of several islands administered by Republic of China (Taiwan):-Greater Kinmen, Lesser Kinmen, and some islets.

Administratively, it is Kinmen County of Fujian Province, ROC.

The county is claimed by the People's Republic of China (PRC) as part of its own Fujian Province's Quanzhou Prefecture.

It is geographically very near Xiamen, no more than 2 kilometers. Kinmen tours have always been very popular among mainland tourists who travel to Xiamen.

There are hourly ferry from Xiamen to Kinmen between 8:30 to 17:30, the one way ferry ticket is RMB 180 {150 (ferry) + 30 (admin fee)}.Travel time about an hour between Taiwan Jinshui port to Xiamen Heping port.

Hong Kong-registered Cosco Star Chinese passenger cargo ship sail from Xiamen port to Kaohsiung,Taichung and Keelung harbour.Sleeping berth starts from USD126.









Travellers from other parts of the city wishing to go to the harbour pier can head for BRT 第一码头站 (Di yi matou BRT Station).

 Once you come out from here turn right and walk for about 10 minutes to reach the Heping Matou where the ferries to Gulangyu Island is located.

 Along the way to Heping Matou,you'll first see a ticketing office which is specially for those going to Zhangzhou.
Not very crowded but mainly the locals.

Zhangzhou (漳州) is a prefecture level city bordering the cities of Xiamen (廈門) and Quanzhou (泉州) to the northeast, Longyan City to the northwest and the province of Guangdong to the southwest.

Ferry timetable:06:35 - 17:30 and 17:45 -21:30,every 15 minutes. Fares:14 Yuan.

 


Feeling excited to head for  Zhangzhou, got hold of a ticket and joined the other passengers to this ferry boat which can accomodate about 40 people.

The journey took about 45 minutes heading straight pass the small island in the vicinity.

On my arrival at the other side of the jetty,there seemed to be no highrise buildings around except for a small bus terminal with many industrial factories cum bonded warehouses.

The people here speak the Teochew dialect and to venture into nearby towns requires couple of hours so decided returning to Xiamen.

For land transport,Xiamen to Zhangzhou Bus leave from Hubin South Bus Station via Haicang Bridge ,Xinglin ,Guankou and Riyuegu Hotsprings Resort.

 These 'tongkang' or cargo boats were popular scene at the Singapore and Malacca River during the early 19h century afterall both cities were early settlements of the Fujian people.

Over here in Xiamen,the tongkangs were still used to carry goods and ferrying some of the Gulangyu residents who wished to avoid the huge crowds at the ferry terminal.

 Travellers need to pay 5 Yuan per trip and sit on a small plastic stool.








Another boat pier ticketing booth to non touristy spot:
-Xiamen via Fu Gong(20Yuan) to Bai Sui (25 Yuan)
Ferry time: 7:30 8:30 9:30 10:30 11:30 13:00 14:30 15:30 16:30 17:30
Can't figure out where are these two locations.




 



Mobile train ticket booking booth near the Lundu Matou beside the ferry to Gulangyu Pier.

 Bullet Trains:

1). Fuzhou-Xiamen (about 1.5 hours) - 103 yuan for first-class seat - 85 yuan for second-class seat

 2). Fuzhou-Putian (about 50 minutes) - 39 yuan for first-class seat - 32 yuan for second-class seat

3). Fuzhou-Quanzhou (about 70 minutes) - 64 yuan for first-class seat - 53 yuan for second-class seat Normal trains: K308/K305

Xiamen Beijing West= 22:10- 1day 8hr 55m- 2287km= 428 Yuan (26 stops) K946/K947

Xiamen Guiyang= 20:17 and 05:56- 1day 9hr 39m -2166km= 401 Yuan(25 stops) D3214

Xiamen Hangzhou= 10:00- 8hr 14m- 1194km=294 Yuan (20 stops) K2314/K231

Xiamen Kunming= 15:40 and 07:30 1day 16hr 13m- 2516km=449 Yuan(24 stops) K162

Xiamen Nanning=15:36, 09:43, 15:41- 1day 3hr 54m- 1396km= 324 Yuan (18 stops) D3120

Xiamen / Xiamen North Shanghai Hongqiao= 08:12- 8h 47m- 1123km= 331 Yuan (17 stops) K244/K241

Xiamen Xian= 16:36, 05:50, 1day 13hr 51m- 2240km= 416 Yuan (27 stops)

Ocean liner passing by Xiamen Straits leaving from Haicang Port.
It was cruising towards Dongdu Port(Xiamen International Cruise terminal) which is the longest serving port located in northwest Xiamen.

Royal Caribbean Cruises' "Voyager of the Seas", dubbed as a 'Floating hotel' due to the vast range of facilities that it offers, is one of the largest passenger ships in the world and has made Xiamen its homeport since 2011.





Luxury cruise ferry berthing near the Heping Terminal, an International Tourist Ferry Terminal.

 As a Chinese coastal city, Xiamen has a long history of sea transportation.

Xiamen-Hong Kong Sailing Schedule Route Ship Departure Time:-

 Xiamen Jimei-Hong Kong :17:00hrs every Wednesday

Hong Kong-Xiamen Jimei :14:00hrs every Tuesday

Public buses No. 3, 4, 8, 12, 27, 32, 51, 71, 97 and 533 pass by the ferry terminal.

Ferryboat Schedule of Xiamen-Gulangyu Island Evening Cruise Schedule

21:10, 21:20, 21:40, 22:00, 22:20, 22:40, 23:00, 23:20, 23:50, 00:30 21:10, 21:30, 21:50, 22:10, 22:30, 22:50, 23:10, 23:40, 00:20

Xiamen MAP