Friday, November 19, 2010

Houay Xai (Laos) transit.

The Mekong river boat waiting for passengers.It was a cool morning by the river and it's still early for them to get enough customers. After clearing the Thai Immigration proceeded to catch a boat for our river crossing.Paid 40 baht at a small ticketing booth and was issued a receipt. A Thai girl being the first and only passenger before us.This boat I think fit for 8 to 10 people and if you have a big backpack should be less than that. This is Stefan,my new found travel buddy whom I met and shared the room in the late night arrival at Chiang Khong. He's a young University of Berlin grads from Germany majoring in Mechanical Engineering. As for me,no need visa for entering Laos but Stefan has to apply an on arrival visa and a tout help him through the immigration formality. This is Houay Xai's main entrance point from across the Mekong River from Chiang Khong.The Lao Immigration is at the far end left beside the river.They are very courteous in their duty. Those people hanging around here are in fact minivan,tuk tuk drivers waiting to offer their services to incoming passengers. This side road is less than 300 metres from the main road. Standing on the platfrom at the Lao Immigration checkpoint,managed to catch a glimpse of the mighty Mekong River with a small island on it. I have 10 more days to cover Northern Laos before I leave through Vientianne. My plan today is to reach Luang Nam Tha and spend a night there. I think Muang Sing and Boten both near China's border has to be ommited due to lack of time. Oudomxai,Phongsali,Luang Prabang,Vang Vieng and Vientiane will be my coverage. Stefan is also going to Luang Nam Tha for his eco-tourism plans so we are together in this quite spacious van.Cost:300 baht per person. Altogether there are 9 foreigners. We met Ester this morning who will be taking a slow boat ride with an overnight stopover at Pak Beng on the way to Luang Prabang. Slowboat from Houay Say to Pak Beng cost 130,000 kips. The main street of Huay Xai looks quite similar to Chiang Khong and that's where all the tour agencies,guesthouses,banks,restaurants are located. I change my baht to kips from a tour agency .(10 baht =2,500 lao kips) If you care to turn right and walk further up as you exited from the immigration,say another 300 metres is a commercial bank with ATM machine. The rates here: kips - baht (2698/2670) Friendship Guesthouse. Friendship lives up to its name with friendly, efficient service. The small but neat rooms have slightly dank bathrooms but windows, wooden floors and a nice rooftop view compensate. Telephone: 084 211 219 Houay Xai Guesthouse. I think Lao people prefer to call it Houay Say. Just like Vientianne,they'll say ViengChan. After stamping your passport as you walk out to the main road,your first view is the staircase leading to a temple. Other places to sleep in Hoay Xai: 1) BAP Guest House Turn left coming from the pier, and BAP is 50m up on the left. All rooms come with fan and hot-water shower. This friendly two-storey place is a good spot to find out about boats going to Luang Nam Tha via Pak Tha or Xieng Kok. There's also a good restaurant downstairs. Telephone: 084 211 083 2) Chaleunshine Guest House Its short distance from town puts this lovely guesthouse in a more authentic bâan location. Rooms are breezy and bright, with spotless tiled floors and hot-water showers in the bathrooms. Telephone: 084 212 076 3) Keoudomphone Hotel The nicest hotel in town is a 15-minute walk from the main strip but it's well worth the effort for the spick, span and spacious rooms. Each has a TV, small couches and plenty of charm and sunlight. Pricier rooms have air-con. This property has been reviewed and recommended by a New Road author. However it is not bookable online either with New Road or with a recommended hotel booking provider. In order to book this property please contact them directly. Telephone: 084 211 405 3) Mekong Lao Hotel Opposite the Keoudomphone, this hotel has a promising exterior and although the rooms are large and comfy, they're pretty musty. They all have air-con and TVs though and are decent for the price. Telephone: 084 211 277 4) Oudomphone Guest House This guesthouse is a spotless option with fan-cooled rooms, clean sheets and surfaces and friendly owners. It's slightly tucked off the main street and good for a quiet night's sleep. There's a small café out the front serving good breakfasts. off Thanon Saykhong 5) Sabaydee Guest House A good cut above the cheaper options in town, this immaculate guesthouse has pristine rooms with firm beds, large windows and commodious hot-water bathrooms. It's efficiently run and recommended. Thanon Saykhong ,Telephone: 084 211 751 6) Thanormsub Guest House One of the best deals in town, this single-story guesthouse has fresh rooms with ceiling fans and hot-water showers attached. It's low-key, immaculate and extremely friendly. Thanon Saykhong ,Telephone: 084 211 095 7) Thaveesinh Hotel This grand pink structure contains an assortment of rooms ranging from cosy, fan-cooled versions to capacious suites with air-con. All have TV, hot water and garish bedspreads. It's not as clean as some of the guesthouses but you're paying for the amenities. Thanon Saykhong ,Telephone: 084 312 039 Places to eat1) Latsuly Restaurant Right next to the slow boat landing, this spot overlooking the Mekong serves an assortment of fried noodle and rice dishes, buffalo steaks, and a good basil pork. They can also whip up sandwiches for you to take on the boats 2) Muang Neur There's plenty of fragrant Lao cuisine to be had at this humble little restaurant, like whole crisp fried fish stuffed with ginger and garlic, spicy seafood soup with lemongrass, and delicious fǒe . It also advertises itself as the Gecko Bar for those in need of lào-láo . 3) Nut Pop Tel: (084) 211 037 (info) On an atmospheric timber deck surrounded by foliage, this restaurant serves great Lao dishes like peppery hot pork, baked fish or chicken with chilli and lime. 4) Riverside Houay Restaurant Address: off Thanon Saykhong The only thing broader than the Mekong view at this restaurant is the menu. A huge array of Thai and Lao is on offer with some good seafood dishes including fried prawn cakes. The tom yams and curries come in all manner of meats, or you can just tuck into an omelette. It has a particularly ambient setting, although the cheesy Thai pop music detracts a little from it. Shopping: Lao Red Cross Thanon Saykhong , Tel: (084) 211 264 (info) You can take a traditional herbal sauna and/or Swedish-Lao massage at the Lao Red Cross . Talat Sao Thanon Saykhong Huay Xai's main morning market, Talat Sao attracts traders from numerous ethnic backgrounds and is situated at the southern end of town near the bus terminal.

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Glittering Shwedagon Pagoda,Yangon.

Located at Singuttara Hill in Yangon capital city Myanmar is an ancient sacred site where the relics of Buddha was buried.

The height: of the Shwedagon Pagoda is about 98 metre and base perimeter is 432.8 metre.

The lower stupa  was plated with 8,688 gold bars while  upper part with 13,153 gold bars.
 A cool and serene praying platform with a beautiful and unique pagoda can easily make visitors spending hours enjoying the charms of  this entire temple complex.














Devotees and pilgrims sat on the wide platform and perform their prayers.
This was once the Victory Ground and  most sacred places here.








 Women sweepers have just completed their day's task and were passing by the bell shrine near the north passage.







Smaller Buddha shrines surrounding the temple acts as  the Guardian Spirit of the Shwedagon Pagoda.












  Offering water and flowers to the Buddha.












Each and every corner has a place like this, making a total of 12 places.










 
Devotion Hall with a large drum.


















As dusk  falls,a gust of strong winds  through the pagoda site makes you imagine being in wonderland.









 Over 2,500 years ago, there lived a king by the name of Okkalapa. He was ruler of Suvannabhumi and ruled over the Talaings. At this time, Siddharta Guatama was living in northern India. He was still a young man and was not yet recognized as the Buddha.







The Eleven Shrine clusters.








As Guatama was reaching the end of his 49 days of meditation, he was visited by two brothers. Their names were Tapussa and Bhallika, and they happened to be from Myanmar and were subjects of Okkalapa. These two merchant brothers present Guatama Buddha with a gift of some honey cake, as they recognized him as The Enlightened One






To express his thanks to them,  Siddharta Guatama pulled out 8 of his hairs off of his head, and gave the hairs to Tapussa and Bhallika. They took the hairs and headed back home.
However, during their journey they were twice robbed, and 4 of the sacred hairs were taken from them. By the time they reached Myanmar, they had only 4 of The Buddha’s hairs left.





The Sun and Moon Stupa.












 The Hall of Gold and Silver Hill.

 












 
 
U Po Thaung Hall.









 The dark sky and sudden downpour lasting for nearly thirty minutes.
If you were lucky to be near the southern entrance,there will be a large hall to take some shelter from being drenched.
Fortunately there were not many visitors at that time.












 Reclining Buddha.






















  The years of 1852 through 1929 mark a time of British military occupation in Myanmar, with colonial rulers controlling the areas.

 However, the people of Myanmar were still able to have full access to the Shwedagon.

In 1871 a new diamond-studded piece for the pagoda’s structure was donated by King Mindon of Mandalay.

The people of Myanmar were thrilled at this tribute and well over 100,000 of them gathered at Shwedagon to celebrate. And although this made the British military somewhat uncomfortable, they had to allow it as the people were honoring their faith.


 The tip of the stupa too high to be seen by our naked eye contains 5,448 diamonds,2,317 rubies,sapphires and other gems,1,065 golden bells,and at the very top ,a single 76-carat diamond.

There were two location where the glittering diamond can be seen at night.

At one location you will be able to see the green and red  sparkles while the other location is the orange and crystal white.








 The bell(Khaung-laung-pon),normally to be hit only three times with a piece of wood during  prayer ceremonies.

In 1608, a Portuguese invader by the name of Philip de Brito y Nicote stole a bell that weighed around 6,0000 lbs, or 30 tons.
However, as he was attempting to return home with the bell, it fell into the Bago River and was lost.
 The bell was replaced in 1779. That was after a massive earthquake in 1768 toppled the highest part of the pagoda.


 Photo showing the thickness of the bell's outer layer.
 After the stupa, was rebuilt, King Hsinbyushin’s son Singu had a 23 ton bronze bell cast.

It was called the Maha Gandha bell.
In the 1820’s, however, British soldiers plundered the pagoda, and stole this bell.
En route to Calcutta, the bell fell overboard and sank into the sea.
 It was later recovered and now sits atop the pagoda platform, on the northwest side.
 Finally, in 1841 another bell was created, this one weighing approximately 8,000 pounds (40 tons) and covered with 45 lbs (20kg) of gold plating.
This bell, called the Maha Tissada bell, still resides in the pagoda, on the northeast side of the enclosure.




From the south entrance which is the stairway used by most foreign visitors,you'll arrived at the Southern Main Shrine(Devotional Hall).







There is an image of Konagamana Buddha (2nd Buddha of this world).

There were 4 Buddhas in this world,with the fifth and the last to come in the future.

 The Maha Bodhi Tree is located near the North right entrance.








Junior nuns visiting the museum. 
Hsi-la-shin (Nuns) were commonly seen in the street of Yangon going round for alms only on two pre-Sabbath days unlike the monks who move around everyday.
 

 
 







The Chinese Merited Association Tazaung.
 Here, there were 28 Buddha images that represent all Buddhas who have lived since the creation of time.







The Shrine of the guardian spirit of Shwedagon Pagoda (or) Shwedagon Bo Bo Gyi.
This was kept behind the glass together with Thagyamin (or) the King of heaven.

There are iron grill fencing to protect from intruders stealing this pure gold statues.






 No through access path from the golden statues shrine located just beside the Eastern stairway.













Buddha’s Footprint Hall encircled and protected by a naga (serpent).
Historically, during the third week after enlightenment, Gautama Buddha was protected by the naga king Mucalinda when there was a great shower of rain.

Before 1st century AD when Buddha was starting to be represented in human form, his footprint, wheel and the Bodhi tree were used as iconographic figures to represent Gautama Buddha.

To pray for blessing here,spill water with the purplish cup near the neck of the naga 5 times and subsequently dip your fingers into the water and wet your forehead three times.






  A small Chinese temple within. 








This is the Pagoda of the Eight Weekdays.

On each side (there were eight sides) of the pagoda is a niche, in which there is a small Buddha image.
Above each Buddha image is an image of an animal that represent each day of Burmese eight weekdays.















Met this young graduate monk with excellent English who provided me with a short guided tour and invaluable talk about Buddhism.

Hpone-kyi or Monks are dedicated to the service of the Buddha with the main role being the propagation of Buddhism.

The influence of hpongyis, therefore on the lives of the Myanmar people is indeed considerable.
About 60 percent of Buddhist boys received free education in hpongyi kyaungs(monks monastery) both as lay pupils or as koyins (i.e., novices). No fees were charged and poorer boys were even given food and clothing. In return the boys rendered a few personal services to the master or teacher.






Monday, September 27, 2010

Visiting Shwedagon Pagoda,Yangon.

A taxi ride from town to Shwedagon Pagoda cost 2,500 kyats.(locals don't accept USD)

Arrived at this North entrance where one has to get into  the elevator onto the 2nd floor and walk through a passageway  via an entrance arch.

The staffs manning near the elevator did not request for any entrance fees except that you are required to take off your shoes and socks and place it at the locker for a fee:-1,000 kyats.(locals pay only 500 kyats)
 Locals were exempted from entrance fees while foreign visitors have to buy an entrance ticket from one of the ticketing booth a short distance on the left from the entrance.

Visitors will normally walk straight with the local crowds as the ticketing booth is hardly to be seen.You'll be surprised  to have ticket inspectors  scrambling after you.
Pay USD5.00 and get the valid one day sticker.



There were many in house security staffs with watchful eyes.
Some will be watching out for looters stealing the donation money in the boxes.

Arrived at the Shwedagon Pagoda complex at about 4:00pm in a sunny afternoon.







A Buddhist shrine with unique rooftop architecture having a blend of Hindu culture.

The north entrance is the nearest to the main pagoda platform area which is also known as the Victory Square.







Burmese women devotees taking a rest  beside the Hall of Prosperity.












Devotees after praying will be fanning the Buddha by pulling  a long string attached to a peacock feather fan above the Buddha's statue .







Burmese university student girl,majoring in economics resting beside the Hall of Prosperity.














The Shwedagon Pagoda Historical museum building is beside the main platform area.
Although it's a small museum,there were many exhibits of some ancient relics.









A late evening overcast  above the Shwedagon Stupa surrounded by smaller pagodas. 

Standing elegantly on top of a hill,the Shwedagon Pagoda is the most unique pagoda in Yangon.(formerly Rangoon) .

Genuine gold plates covering the brick structure attached by traditional rivets maintained through the generosity of the Myanmar people donating their gold jewellery.





The most sacred platform area of the Shwedagon Pagoda with many smaller monuments beneath were dedicated to different subjects such as the planetary post for Jupiter that stands just beside the Kassapa Temple.








The planetary post for Rahu lies in the north-west corner.
Slightly to the north is a small octagonal, golden-spired pagoda, the Pagoda of the Eight Weekdays.




  The base or plinth of the stupa is made of bricks covered with gold plates.

 Above the base are terraces that only monks and men can access.

 Next is the bell-shaped part of the stupa.

 Above that is the turban, then the inverted alms bowl (thabeik), inverted and upright lotus petals, the banana bud and then the crown.

The crown or umbrella (hti) is tipped with 5,448 diamonds and 2,317 rubies. Immediately before the diamond bud is a flag-shaped vane (nga myat na). The very top, the diamond bud (sein bu) is tipped with a 76 carat (15 g) diamond.




According to archeologists, the stupa was constructed some 2600 years ago to preserve the hairs strands of Buddha which was personally given by him to the two merchant brothers on their journey to India.







 A miniature reclining buddha.












Buddha Kassapa temple,the main west shrine with many pilgrims and worshippers.

The girls in uniform were security personnel  guarding golden statue and donation boxes.




 The amazing clusters of  smaller pagodas beneath the main stupa.
  "Shwe" means gold and "Dagon" is a former name of Yangon.

Pagoda festivals in Myanmar:


January- Ananda Pagoda Festival in Bagan, 
February- Mahamuni Pagoda Festival in Mandalay
March:
(1) Indawgyi Pagoda Festival in Kachin State(2)Kakku Pagoda Festival in Shan State
(3) Shwe Gu Nat Festival in Sagaing Division
(4) Ah May Ye Yin Nat Festival in Sagaing Division
 April-Thingyan Water Festival
 May- pouring the water to Bo tree
 June:
(1) Thihoshin Pagoda and Mya Sein Nyo Nat Festival  in Sagaing Division
(2)Shwe Kyun Pin Pagoda Festival in Sagaing Division.
July-Waso Chinloe ( cane ball ) festival held in Mandalay.
August:
(1) Taungpyone Nat Festival in Mandalay 
2) Yatanagu  Nat Festival in Mandalay
September:
(1) Kyaukse Elephant Dance Festival(2) Shwe Na Pe Nat Festival in Mandalay
(3) Kyauktawgyi Pagoda Festival
October:
(1) Thadingyut Festival
(2) Phaungdaw Oo Pagoda Festival In Shan State
November:
(1) Shwezigone Pagoda Festival in Bagan
(2) Thanbudde  Pagoda Festival in Monywa
(3) Phowintaung Pagoda Festival in Monywa
(4) Kaungmudaw Pagoda Festival in Sagaing
(5)Taunggyi Tazaungdine Festival in Shan State
(6) Kakku Pagoda Festival in Shan State
December- Shwemyetmhan Pagoda Festival in Pegu Division located in Shwe Taung.





View of Shwedagon Pagoda during the night.
According to some historians and archaeologists, however, the pagoda was built by the Mon people between the 6th and 10th centuries.

The Mon were responsible for the spread of Theravada Buddhism in Burma and Thailand.

The Mon ethnic group  mostly live  in the Mon State of Bago Division,the Irrawaddy Delta and along the southern Thai-Burmese border.